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  1. #1

    Default Landrum Bump stop springs

    was wondering if anyone has toyed with landrums spring style bump stops, and how they compare to the rubber style stops

  2. #2

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    I've tested many of those types of deals in the past, but do like the extra travel that those springs have compared to the older ones that I tested. They can be used just like any other tool in the LM world, some may like them and others not.


    Personally, I'm not a fan of them but to each his own.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    Most of these springs are linear, and because its a spring require a ton of rebound to control compared to the bumpstop. The PRO of a spring is its linear properties through its travel, which can be a benefit because its not exponentially adding wheel load. A traditional bumpstop being an Xmas tree style, Roller Skate Wheel or Puck style, has a progressive give some can be pretty extreme curves can load the wheel tremendously, and spike tire loadings. The drawback on the springs is the high rebound required to control the spring, its hard on mounts and arms traditionally used in DLM. I have used the CRD bumpsprings the softer one they make can go quite well on the DLM, but you don't want to see the rebound it requires, and shock bleed is super important to or you will ratchet the car down and start breaking mounts.

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the info new to the late model world and starting to explore bump stops

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,677

    Default

    Any time you coil bind a spring, its life is reduced. Keep that in mind.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 2

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    105

    Default

    If you plan on running them be sure you re rate them after 3-4 nights. Also when compressing them anything over 33% they start losing rate sooner. I'd stick to urethane type springs which are progressive and I believe more consistent.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

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    MasterbuiltRacer wrote:"Any time you coil bind a spring, its life is reduced. Keep that in mind."Ditto. I call these "POT LUCK" designs.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by racerkid12 View Post
    Thanks for the info new to the late model world and starting to explore bump stops
    Not to sound like an a$s but if you're new to late models, I would recommend sticking with conventional RF setups. Figuring out a bump stop setup can take a lot of tuning and it will interfere with the number one thing you need which is seat time in a consistent handling car. When not perfect, the bump stop and stack spring setups can be incredibly unpredictable and difficult to drive consistently; especially for a new driver.

    Just food for thought. Late models are complicated enough. I'd recommend keeping it simple before getting into these types of setups. I speak from experience.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    4,022

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt49 View Post
    Not to sound like an a$s but if you're new to late models, I would recommend sticking with conventional RF setups. Figuring out a bump stop setup can take a lot of tuning and it will interfere with the number one thing you need which is seat time in a consistent handling car. When not perfect, the bump stop and stack spring setups can be incredibly unpredictable and difficult to drive consistently; especially for a new driver.

    Just food for thought. Late models are complicated enough. I'd recommend keeping it simple before getting into these types of setups. I speak from experience.
    I agree 100% , also you have to really understand what's going on with the rear also, it all has to work together

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