I don't have a whole lot of skill in this area. What tools are most of yall using. I see some spectacular work on some of these cars smooth lines at edges that I can't replicate with electric or hand shears. Are you using Nibblers? What are you cutting your wheel openings with? Do you roll and flare them a little or what the technique these days. I can't afford to put 2k in a body like some of these guys. What tools of the trade seem to be the most used these days?
If you do not have a brake you are fighting a losing battle I have a brake and still buy my sides .There is a local shop that will do sides for 185.00 that is laser cut w wheel openings cut and body broke. The metal alone cost me 65.00 a sheet so that's a 130.00 right there I will gladly pay 55.00 to not cut and bend them . A lot of times local racers will do bodies for race money ask around maybe they will let you help to learn about what is involved then you can decide if it's worth the expense for all the stuff you need to do them
All straight lines are double folded on a brake , curves are cut with red aviation snips and double folded with a pair of electrical " linesman " pliers and finished with a body hammer on a piece of Ipe wood or smooth composite decking. There is no magic just patience and being accurate. I have hem rollers for my miter brothers power roller an honestly I prefer to just do it by hand.
I use a set of making electric shears, some 14 inch Malco hand shears that you can find at most any Johnstone hvac supply store, Malco brand are the only brand of those I use, also have a set of red handle Matco tin snips I use for the small tight corners, a ten foot by 4 foot table to use to cut the sheet metal on, I have a 6 foot boyd built break but really need a 6 1/2 foot to do the door bottoms, also a Irvan smith electric bead roller with step rolder dies and dies to hem the wheel wells or any other edges, am Irvan smith brand shrunken and stretcher, and I also just bought a roper Whitney lever action hole punch to do the spring steel more easily than drilling it, but all star performance sells a more economical punch that works ok for someone not doing bodies for a side job or alot of other people. You can get away without the bend roller amd shrink and stretchers easily it just give everything a cleaner more professional finish. And if you use aluminum strapping and not spring steel you won't need a spring steel punch.
Last edited by Punisher88; 01-19-2015 at 10:39 AM.
Makita electric shears* and I don't know where you are located but I am from Phenix City, AL and don't mind letting anyone come help on their car and learn a few things and the tools required. I normally drop the price of the labor by a good bit for someone that helps amd keeps me from having to get in all the awkward places to rivet and drill the holes for the decking lol. Below is a car I finished last week.
Last edited by Punisher88; 01-19-2015 at 10:42 AM.
I would be in Virginia. Just had some friends go out to the Wild West Shootout. I appreciate the offer! What do you use the shrinker stretcher on like rolling fender tops? So most any edge you don't break and crimp over like wheel wells or like say interior edge you hem over on the roller so you get a clean edge that the snips won't make? I have a old military 12ft break, some old electric shears but thats about it
Yes the is exactly it. I don't like usin the crimper that sort of crinkle the metal to shrink it because they weaken it so bad. The only edges I don't hem are the window opening because the radius of the corners are too tight. I just file them down really well.
On fender tops you can just use a set of hand crimpers from the hardware store. It does weaken up the area, but once you put the gusset on the inner lip they are fine. And for things like wheelwells and lips on the interior you just do like hucktyson said, start by using lineman pliers and bend the edge up (about 3/8") then repeat about 3 times bending the edge up at more of an angle every time until you are close to 90*, then use a body hammer and finish hemming it over flat. No roller needed. I don't leave any single edges anywhere on the car, everything is doubled over. And when you do a 90* bend, like on decking where it butts together, instead of bending just a 90 over that is 1" tall, I will hem over 1.5" then bend my 1" 90 down so you are doubled up, plus a 1/2" "L" at the top. It adds a ton of strength. I've built tons of bodies with a set of good snips, electric shears, a brake, lineman pliers, hand crimpers, and a hammer laid out on a piece of plywood. Kite string does wonders for helping you lay out decking too. You've already got the expensive tools you'll need, now it's time to get to work. Lol
Yep it's just about experience and trial and error. If you have old body panels to copy it helps a lot of course. a good break is worth it's weight in gold. John 1*
"Out of every one hundred men, ten shouldn't even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them, for they make the battle. Ah, but the one, one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back."
— Heraclitus
For the fender well lips I welded a stop half way down the jaw of vise grips and ground the teeth off. This gives you the same distance every time. And like everyone said practice makes it easier. we have 4 to practice on now. It can be real fun.
So yall don't get marks doing it without a roller? Thanks for the info and ideas I might already have all the tools we will see.
It's pretty smooth if you take your time and bend it a little at a time. If you get in a rush it can look a little uneven along the edge, but I've never had issues with it looking dented or wavy. Obviously a roller will be smoother, but not everyone wants to make that investment. Especially if you only do one or 2 a year.
I just Started building my bodies last year, the first one was pretty good but i wasn't happy with it. I'm on my 4th one now got the hang of it pretty good. I do have a home made break to do tops of doors and quarters, but other than that i do all mine by hand. I double all my edges and around wheels, i used my buddies 4ft brake for my fenders. also made my pliers to roll fenders, in the process of getting shrinker/stretcher. I just finished the body on my car, heres a few pics of it.where in VA are you located, I'm in NC close to VA line?*edit* you can see my home made brake in the back ground of the 3rd pic
I have had good luck w harbor freight electric shears had them for 4 years used and abused them if they quit tomorrow I have got my money out of them you can catch them on sale for under 50 bucks. Since you have a brake you are good to go it is really a big advantage if you have old panels to go by. If you lay it out right you can get 1 side per sheet hood and filler will take 1 sheet fender tops sail panels roof post will require 1 more . If you are gonna do your own spoiler you might can get them out of scraps 5 sheets total with no major foul ups I ain't that good though one thing I always screw up is if I use color on white I always make something with the color the wrong way my advice pay the little extra and get color on color that makes it dummy proof for people like me.
even if it is color/color you can still screw up, was making a LR quarter a couple weeks ago turned into a RR real fast lol. i started writing front or back to keep me in check. you can deff. mess up any min. if your not paying attention. also harbor freight shears do work great. got mine on clearance $30
Tip I have found is on cut lines I need straight use a scribe to mark the cut line. You only cut as accurate as your line. Since I started doing the scribe over the marker on cut lines I have noticed much straighter cuts. Make dang sure your line is correct though once she is marked she is marked.
I use a pair of Bluepoint 9a snips. Snap on duckbill pliers to do the hems on the wheelwells and a homemade shrinker made from a pair of visegrips and some dowl rod.
Alot of great ideas listed, I'll just add to it, once you get yourself a good body that fits how you like it take the extra time and make some templates..local supplier gave me a few sheets of aluminum that got dinged up which made great material for my templates. You might have a little extra time in making them but will save you time,money,and aluminum later on down the road..
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