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Willwood wide five bearing preload
Helping a buddy pack his bearings and reinstall his old hubs. Mine have always had bearing spacers. His don't. So I have never set up the old style that don't have spacers and can't find the info on wildwoods site.
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Usually you set the bearings then back off just a hair. It's tricky if you don't know what your doing. And it's kinda hard to explain
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Originally Posted by Kwoods25
Usually you set the bearings then back off just a hair. It's tricky if you don't know what your doing. And it's kinda hard to explain
So just like a classic car, this car seemed to have a small amount of preload. When backing off center nut it was tight for at least a 1/16 of a turn. I rolled it back to original position to "feel" how tight it was. But this car is new to him and want to be sure they are set correctly. I assumed they would be tightened until they reach zero and backed off. then tighten again to zero, spin hub forward and back and loosen a hair.
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You got it. Spacers are the way to go
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Anybody sell just 1 spacer?
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DRP performance products has them
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talk to Lenny at DRP. They have the best products and knowledge. It is well worth the money to invest in spacers
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racers warehouse has them $45 each, free shipping
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I've packed many bearings in my lifetime as I used to work on cars at a dealership and the method I've always used is to spin the hub as you are tightening the nut with your fingers. Once its snugged up, back it off 1/8 turn.
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Originally Posted by FlatTire
I've packed many bearings in my lifetime as I used to work on cars at a dealership and the method I've always used is to spin the hub as you are tightening the nut with your fingers. Once its snugged up, back it off 1/8 turn.
this is also how ive been doing it for years and knock on wood, never had a problem.
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Originally Posted by FlatTire
I've packed many bearings in my lifetime as I used to work on cars at a dealership and the method I've always used is to spin the hub as you are tightening the nut with your fingers. Once its snugged up, back it off 1/8 turn.
Ditto on how to do this. I for one after 45 years of doing hub bearings on countless cars as a mechanic pretty much this way cannot even think of wasting money on spacers. I have seen data on rolling resistance VS spacers and no spacers the gain is nothing. I take the wide 5 socket and with my hand only spin the hub and tighten as I spin the hub as tight as i can with just my hand, no wrench on the socket. then back off and repeat several times. Try to get a feel for what you are doing. This ain't friggin super science for God's sake. JMHO
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I'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
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Originally Posted by TLM4t4
I'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
And now we'll wait for the endless stream of bullsh!t from the people selling spacers.
Until you show me back-to-back lap times differences with "my way" versus setting up with a spacer, I'll pass on hundreds of dollars for extra unsprung weight.
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Originally Posted by TLM4t4
I'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
no one has ever been able to convince me either. I thought one time that maybe the distortion on the bearings under load might have something to do with it , but a tapered bearing keeps its self in line. only uses I see is if someone just cant get the feel for hand setting the bearings they might help. on the other hand here is one possibility I've thought of, on the pinion bearings on a nine inch ford rear end , you suppose to use the crush sleeve or the bearing spacers and shims like I use, to obtain 12 inch pounds of pre load on the bearings with light oil on bearings, then you take it apart , put seal in ,put it back together and lock it down . those hub bearings are basically the same thing. but even though you might be more accurate on preload, I don't think it matters and I cant see any performance gain. JMO
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Are low drag bearings and seals worth the expense?
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I would say more so than those spacers
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Those low drag parts were causing me to burn my brakes up so I bought me some super duper HI-Drag bearings and seals, they slow my car down so much I don't have to hardly touch the brakes! In fact my hi- drag bearings and seals worked so good at slowing the car down I took all the brakes off the car to reduce rotating & un sprung weight! Now I'm seeing lap times improve from .5-.8secs/lap. I'll probably run for LUcas OIl points this year I'm so fast now.
Last edited by FlatTire; 03-05-2015 at 10:21 AM.
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im taking my brakes off rite now, lol, good one flat, by the way, whats the part number to those bearings?
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You get them $100.00 spacers adjusted right you won't need tires you will be so durn fast tho
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dam im way behind.....soon as I get these updates done, im joining flat tire and going lucas racing, weeeee, please pardon my comments, I forgot we are not in the gossip section.
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