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Extremely high rear bite numbers?
My rear bite is 350 lbs with 53%rear 53%left and 59% cross. (Car isn't bad but could be better with drive off, and is a little loose) is my rear bite #s to high that they are taking from the right side?
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Originally Posted by Hodrod7
My rear bite is 350 lbs with 53%rear 53%left and 59% cross. (Car isn't bad but could be better with drive off, and is a little loose) is my rear bite #s to high that they are taking from the right side?
Very possible
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -2
Atomic - 2
Moler - 1
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Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Very possible
I think I somewhat figure why I have so much rear bite. (was searching for things at the track and tried the 16" and forgot about) I went from a lr 250 lbs 13" to a 250 lbs 16". with a 225 lbs 13"on the right side. Am I correct to say the 16" spring compressed to 13' will would be adding that much bite. If I want to run that 16" I am thinking I should go way lighter with the LR? (playing with on the scales tonight to find out)
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Originally Posted by Hodrod7
I think I somewhat figure why I have so much rear bite. (was searching for things at the track and tried the 16" and forgot about) I went from a lr 250 lbs 13" to a 250 lbs 16". with a 225 lbs 13"on the right side. Am I correct to say the 16" spring compressed to 13' will would be adding that much bite. If I want to run that 16" I am thinking I should go way lighter with the LR? (playing with on the scales tonight to find out)
yes. You got all that bite from loading that 16" spring up enough to return your ride height. A softer spring would allow you to keep bite closer to the old value.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -2
Atomic - 2
Moler - 1
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drop the cross, way to high
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Only way ive been able to get the cross and bite down is to swap the rear springs. I went back to 13" on each side and it done the same thing, so I swapped the left to the right and cross went down to 55% and bite at 200 lbs. (900 lbs spring across the front, 225 LR and 275 rr is what they are now with lower cross) I'm concerned the 275 on the right will make me loose?
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do you have screw jacks or spring adjusters? Adjust them, check tire sizes, check frame heights. Im personally see no reason to run a 16 inch spring, but don't know your setup, track or drive style. you don't say what type of car. way to many variables to give you an answer
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Originally Posted by Fox_hunter42
do you have screw jacks or spring adjusters? Adjust them, check tire sizes, check frame heights. Im personally see no reason to run a 16 inch spring, but don't know your setup, track or drive style. you don't say what type of car. way to many variables to give you an answer
It's a Metric car. Left 900 6/4. Right 900 3/8, this is what was on it 250 16" 8/3 left 225 13" 225 4/4, 60% cross with 350lbs of bite!! I have no problem going to a 13" across the back. But with this shock package should I have a heavier spring on the LR? Ride height is about 2" of rack with RF 3/8 higher. And I can adjust with screw jacks. Thanks for your help.
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Put a 16" 175 rate spring in the left rear. Will lighten cross numbers. Car will want to climb up on the cars per say with the longer preloaded lr spring. Leave everything the same as it is with the 13" spring, and just change spring only, should be pretty close to what you had with the shorter spring. see how you like the feel of it.
I talked a friend into letting me set up car with light spring and a bunch of preload , and he loves it. Won his first race shortly after we done it.
Last edited by JustAddDirt; 06-11-2016 at 04:47 PM.
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
Put a 16" 175 rate spring in the left rear. Will lighten cross numbers. Car will want to climb up on the cars per say with the longer preloaded lr spring. Leave everything the same as it is with the 13" spring, and just change spring only, should be pretty close to what you had with the shorter spring. see how you like the feel of it. I talked a friend into letting me set up car with light spring and a bunch of preload , and he loves it. Won his first race shortly after we done it.
Well, I left it alone last night, except I I tried a 10" spring with spacers on the rr (yes I can't leave stuff alone) Car wasn't bad but had a bad push when off then on the throttle (after I lifted going in and got back on it) But was loose if I drove it in and stayed on the throttle! I know a lot of this is the driver but I need to get it to a neutral spot!
Last edited by Hodrod7; 06-12-2016 at 07:27 PM.
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Alot of what you are feeling in that last post is setup/driver. I don't believe that shock combo would be forgiving
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the long preload lr spring is inherently pushy when getting on the gas. make sure you get the car rotated before getting back on the gas
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lr spring
Originally Posted by a1driver
the long preload lr spring is inherently pushy when getting on the gas. make sure you get the car rotated before getting back on the gas
yes nose must be pointed where you want it, before throttle applied
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Can someone explain a Rule of thumb with front springs? Say I had 1000 lf 900 RF and switched them what would that do with the car? Or even went to a 800 lf 900 RF? What I am asking is what will it do when going heavier/weaker on each front.
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cant answer your question, but if your lf is stiffer than rf its backwards. 1000 on rf may not be stiff enough, depending on track
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Some people run front springs both ways. Typically people will run the lf heavy since they don't know how to flip wheel weights when on scales. The heavier the rf spring the more drive the car will have off the corner. But in the same sense when done on scales you want lf wheel weights to be heavier then rf. That allows you to run less bite with more cross which will allow you to get back to the gas sooner into the corner.
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Tie the rr down a little with 3/5 and bring In rr. You'll bring a win home or be up front next race.
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Originally Posted by Bdcase19
Some people run front springs both ways. Typically people will run the lf heavy since they don't know how to flip wheel weights when on scales. The heavier the rf spring the more drive the car will have off the corner. But in the same sense when done on scales you want lf wheel weights to be heavier then rf. That allows you to run less bite with more cross which will allow you to get back to the gas sooner into the corner.
Oem suspension cars don't gain drive from stiffer rf.
Less bite with more cross? Less bite is less cross. When setting up dirt cars cross is not used just bite
Lf spring heavier tightens entry off gas.
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I hate to break it to ya "stock car driver" but yes, yes they do gain drive with stiffer rf but also like stiffening the lr tightens car on entry. We have ran our car both ways lf heavy and rf heavy car is a lot more driveable but like I said you have to know how to scale the car and keep bite down while scaled lf heavy. And no you can keep cross in the car and take bite out. But there is no sense in argueing with you because you seem like someone who knows it all.
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Hate to break it to you CASE but stock car driver has won a lot of races in our area. He did pretty (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) well. These street stocks have some crazy set ups in them though.
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