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604 water bypass lines
Are the water bypass lines on the intake 6AN or 8AN?
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dash 6 will only bleed air from the rear ---they are not large enough to move any substantial water from the rear of the engine
also do not plumb into the manifold fittings at the front of the intake as this will simply dead head the water
using a water neck riser is the proper plumbing and dash 8 lines
in our kit, that I will "attempt" to put up a link to,-- we also include a 1 inch water director
the director is positioned in the intake (under the water bypass lines) and tells the bypass system to work.
http://race-1.com/i-23432885-cii-550...-pass-kit.html
I think I was able to put up the link if not check the cooling tab on our website
Brad
www.race-1.com
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I already ran a PPM water neck riser with the 1/2" NPT ports and a -16 AN radiator hose and restrictor on my 602. My plan was to use this and make my own kit for my 604. The only part I'm unsure of is the 1" water director. Not sure what this is or how it works. Can it be purchased separately?
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HMMM---
1st of all a restrictor on a 602 usually spells problems
next your ppm riser will work great on your 604 but my question is what was the need on the 602?
I hope you were not running lines to the center of the intake on your 602--(see link below)
http://race-1.com/p-26200-are-my-602...s-correct.html
the director that we use is to "direct" the water to the bypass hoses ----as with most things the water flowing through your block and heads will take the easiest path ----so we direct a certain amount of the water to the rear for more even cooling
water bypass lines on a 604 (done correctly) will even out the heat in the cylinder heads and block thus letting it perform better and live longer----if you have an over heating problem----you will still have a over heating problem when water lines are installed---they are not going to help the engine run cooler just more even.
Brad
www.race-1.com
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No I ran the PPM water riser because it had the 16AN fitting for the top hose and used extra port for water pressure sender. I tried it with and without restrictor and it made little difference. I think maybe the small 16AN top hose is restriction enough.
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Gibbs oil blend
Brad,
I saw on another post you recommend a blend of XP three and XP six for the 604's.
What ratio do you recommend? What is the average number of laps between changes?
Thanks !
Last edited by rebreb; 02-19-2017 at 06:26 AM.
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Rebreb,
you had to be digging back aways for that or have a really great memory--LOL
YES, at one point we did recommend that mix--- and it would be a 50/50 ratio
Now we just use XP9 which is a 50/50 mix of XP3 and xp6
The folks at Gibbs/Driven noticed enough engine builders making that recommendation and turned it into its own part# and name-----
The Gibbs oils do mix well and there is actually a chart in their catalog for coming up with custom weights
we still today believe a hot weight of 40 makes the lifters the happiest in the GM crate engine
always use a split weight oil ---the first number is the cold viscosity and can be multiple numbers depending on manufacturer but the end number is what we race on and we like 40
Brad
www.race-1.com
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To answer your oil change interval question-----
different oils have different recommended change intervals
and extreme situations have different change interval requirements
On the Gibbs XP9 with "NORMAL" use (water temps under 220----oil temps under 250) (good filters) etc.
we recommend racing 3 nights and then changing the filter
race another 3 nights and change the filter again
race another 3 nights and change everything
of course you will need to add at least 1 quart of oil every time you change the filter
the oil level should be checked and adjusted every week
NEVER over fill a GM crate engine---oil level is critical on these engines
keep in mind this is a general recommendation
Brad
www.race-1.com
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Originally Posted by brad hibbard
To answer your oil change interval question-----
different oils have different recommended change intervals
and extreme situations have different change interval requirements
On the Gibbs XP9 with "NORMAL" use (water temps under 220----oil temps under 250) (good filters) etc.
we recommend racing 3 nights and then changing the filter
race another 3 nights and change the filter again
race another 3 nights and change everything
of course you will need to add at least 1 quart of oil every time you change the filter
the oil level should be checked and adjusted every week
NEVER over fill a GM crate engine---oil level is critical on these engines
keep in mind this is a general recommendation
Brad
www.race-1.com
Gibbs dumped after 9 nights, thats crazy. 100-120 laps for a weekly racer?
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weekly racer: 5 hot laps , 10 lap heat, 20 lap feature x9 nights= 315laps
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Originally Posted by GRT62
weekly racer: 5 hot laps , 10 lap heat, 20 lap feature x9 nights= 315laps
Still an absolute waste of money.
Send some samples off some time to be analyzed.
Since r2c filters came out, with a outer wear and using their base plate (and rubber seal on top of the carb), nothing gets into your motor... nothing.
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with all the different types of racing we encounter these days that Race-1 is apart of maybe it would be better to start our timeline in laps rather than nights
we have pavement tracks that start practice at 2 in the afternoon where an engine may run 50 laps of practice and then qualify plus 10 to 15 lap heat and then 50 to a 100 lap main event (170 laps possible)
then on the flip side we have dirt mod classes that run 3 hot laps 8 lap heat and 15 lap feature (less than 30 laps)
admittedly there is a pretty big swing between the 2 but then there is everything in between
I have simply kept track of "nights" my whole life
when talking with the general racing public I think a fair average is 50 laps per night
(sorry---I just can't break the night timeline)
with that said I am making a recommendation in the 450 "LAP" area for a complete oil change
Stock Car, I certainly agree with you that the Gibbs product is a quality oil and will withstand punishment but please put yourself in my shoes for a minute
we deal with a wide customer base and not all of them are as thorough with maintenance items like air filters and clean radiators as we would like or expect them to be.
excessive heat and contaminants are always bad so we are conservative in our recommendations and as I stated in the original post ---our recommendation is general
Brad
www.race-1.com
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I've always looked at this way, I can buy oil and filters cheaper than I can engines. I tend to lean to the conservative side on oil changes it is never to early.
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I agree with both of the above posts. Especially Brad. as an engine builder you cannot have a base recommendation for all. a lot depends on how the stuff is kept up with and maintained.
you all have to remember Stock Car Driver is God. he knows everything and he is not afraid to tell you his option.
write or wrong. I agree with a lot of what he says, but his delivery is a little rough around the edges.
JMO though not bashing anyone.
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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