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Deck
How much are guys skewing the deck on the right side now? How much taper from the front deck bar at the mid-plate to the rear t-bar?
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Originally Posted by mab475
How much are guys skewing the deck on the right side now? How much taper from the front deck bar at the mid-plate to the rear t-bar?
Go as far as you can and still get it in the trailer.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -3
Atomic - 2
Moler - 1
Eldora - 2
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Originally Posted by mab475
How much are guys skewing the deck on the right side now? How much taper from the front deck bar at the mid-plate to the rear t-bar?
As long as you are 87 degrees at the RR corner of the car, you will just make the 117" required minimum on the diagonal measurement.
Now there are ways to cheat this but depends how and who are tech'ing
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I can't give you that measurement unless we are comparing the same chassis.
Not all cars have the upper rails parallel to the Jig or whatever you want to call square and in the same place between cars. Some cars the upper rails actually taper inboard some and others very little and some not at all and the rear clip rails are likely not in the same place either. So you have no reference to say 5" of taper in the body from something (upper rails) is the same on a different car.
If you use the 87 degrees at the RR corner of the right side body line to the spoiler you will just meet the 117" rule unless you have a spoiler shorter then the 72" allowed.
Sorry there just isn't a way other then that you to give you an answer
Last edited by billetbirdcage; 01-12-2023 at 08:46 PM.
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Thanks for the replies. I do agree with billet about the design of each chassis being to different to use any reference points from them. The 87 degree is what I'll use to go off of. At least at first lol
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Are they just shifting the deck to the right at the middle bar and rear T bar or is the front T bar getting shifted to the left?
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Rear t bar to the right and front t bar to the left. I pull a string from front t bar to rear when I'm completely redoing a car. I pull the string down the right side tight. I then use clamps to hold the t bars in place and slide the front to the left and the rear to the right. What I look for is to keep the rr tire inside the string by about an inch and I like the rf to be about 2/3 out from under the string, basically wider than the front decking.
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Originally Posted by Punisher88
Rear t bar to the right and front t bar to the left. I pull a string from front t bar to rear when I'm completely redoing a car. I pull the string down the right side tight. I then use clamps to hold the t bars in place and slide the front to the left and the rear to the right. What I look for is to keep the rr tire inside the string by about an inch and I like the rf to be about 2/3 out from under the string, basically wider than the front decking.
For anyone that wonders what my other post is about, THIS is helpful. Not vague at all. Thank you. And to be even clearer, have no plans to move the t-bars on my recliner. Just find the details very interesting.
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A bit off topic, so I apologize, but what the heck is going on with the LF fenders on these cars now? I haven't been out to watch in person yet this year, but from what I've seen on-line, there are cars that look like the LF door area is pushed in, yet the fender top jets out to the nose flare...? Unless I'm seeing it wrong.
Overton's car was one I definitely saw it on, and I believe B-Shepp's was pretty much the same.
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Drone shot of Davenport...can you say twisted-sister?
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Its just another way to circumvent the shew and droop rules. (or maybe I am wrong)
move the rear deck T bar to right, which moves your droop check location closer to the center of the car, which will allow you more lr dropout.
also by moving that rear T bar to the right, allows more skew in right side body and stays within the 117" skew number rule. (twisted sister look from above)
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
Its just another way to circumvent the shew and droop rules. (or maybe I am wrong)move the rear deck T bar to right, which moves your droop check location closer to the center of the car, which will allow you more lr dropout.also by moving that rear T bar to the right, allows more skew in right side body and stays within the 117" skew number rule. (twisted sister look from above)
I don't think the skew has anything to do with th droop rule. The whole idea is to get the spoiler higher. If your shifting the spoiler "down the hill" to get the measurement then your essentially just adding bar angle at that point. Witch I'm pretty sure no one is after. Skewing the deck is all about aero and free side bite/grip. I really think it's one of the biggest reasons the Horns have been better in the longer races. All those little tricks add up and compound on the long runs equating to better tire wear
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Originally Posted by Jking24
I don't think the skew has anything to do with th droop rule. The whole idea is to get the spoiler higher. If your shifting the spoiler "down the hill" to get the measurement then your essentially just adding bar angle at that point. Witch I'm pretty sure no one is after. Skewing the deck is all about aero and free side bite/grip. I really think it's one of the biggest reasons the Horns have been better in the longer races. All those little tricks add up and compound on the long runs equating to better tire wear
Right. That rr quarter out there is basically an airplane rudder keeping the rr from stepping out.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -3
Atomic - 2
Moler - 1
Eldora - 2
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Looks like Overton's RR wheel opening keeps getting smaller and smaller too. These body rules and the enforcement are just about pointless at this point it seems.
Make America Godly Again
2 Chronicles 7:14
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Theres a photo of Overton and O'Neal side by side on the straightaway with Overton having 4-6 more inches of hike!
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I think they are using an offset rear end, and moving the chain over to more of the middle of the rear end. Then you can use the RR Compression to add hike, pivoting off the chain.
RR spring and limiter is the key, create a lot of travel with a preloaded spring / bump etc. So you can amplify the travel on / to the LR.
You can beat the Hike check this way, but limiting the RR to ride height makes it harder.
Last edited by Kromulous; 05-22-2023 at 12:08 PM.
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