Lr clamped rr z link? Lightning

[jsf74]

On my 2010 lightning I'm gonna try a lr clamped with a straight panhard bar and either a rr z link or regular both bars floated like a normal 4 bar setup. What will be different on the two setups on the rr. Our track is a sandy slick high banked d. On the lr do I run the shock in the back on the same clamped bracket as the spring. I do NOT want to muscle this car around the corner I like to drive in straight like a pavement car with good drive off.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

On my 2010 lightning I'm gonna try a lr clamped with a straight panhard bar and either a rr z link or regular both bars floated like a normal 4 bar setup. What will be different on the two setups on the rr. Our track is a sandy slick high banked d. On the lr do I run the shock in the back on the same clamped bracket as the spring. I do NOT want to muscle this car around the corner I like to drive in straight like a pavement car with good drive off.

You see mods on a clamp deal where the shock is on the backside of the "rocker box" as I call it. I don't really agree with this as you need a very stiff shock to control hike down this way. I would run a coilover deal on the lr front. My opinion, but Donnie may get on here and tell you different. They are his cars and I respect his knowledge and would defer to him.

On the rr, the z link deal will be less progressive and not plant the rr on entry with the same force as the 4 link would. This can be good or bad depending on what you need. As a result, the car may be tighter on exit, but some of that will come down to spring choice and trailing arm angle.

[HEAVY DUTY]

On the lr shock, it can be on the rear or the front as a coil over. With a pullbar, the pinion wraps up and down so far and fast that it is hard to control the hike down with the coilover shock in front. If it had a lift bar, I would say use the coilover because the pinion only rotates 7 or 8 degrees. With it on the rear, you have to run less rebound than if it was on the front so you don't limit hike up too much. When the pinion rotates up when on the throttle, and the shock is on the front, it compresses the shock when it first moves, and then it extends (rebound). When the shock is behind, it rebounds as soon as you touch the throttle. When the pinion comes down as you let off the throttle, the bottom mount if on the front of the axle drops, and there isn't anything to help control the hike down, except for trail braking to keep the pinion up.( Most good trail brakers run better on a spring behind setup) If the shock is behind the axle, the shock travels more as the pinion rotates than it does on the front making it act stiffer. ( like it does on the front of the birdcage on a spring behind car) Most situations call for about a 6 compression and 3 or 4 rebound for a clamp car with the shock behind.

[jsf74]

Ok I'll run my shock on the rear with the spring in the cup on the front. Now the rr i know you've already said in the past I could run either a z or 4 bar floated but whats the differences in how it drives. I enter off the throttle and I do not trail brake well.

[HEAVY DUTY]

Mastersbuilt explained it well. The spring on top is easier to understand as the spring will move the same amount as the axle tube. If the spring is on the birdcage, it will have a progressive rate, whether z link or 4 link.( more so on a 4 link) You can use a progressive rate to your advantage, if you understand it. The spring on top will have a wider sweet spot. It is harder on the spring on top, because the spring is being twisted and moved sideways, rather than straight down like if it is on a shock or coilover eliminator. If either of your rear springs are on a cup, rather than a coilover, you will need to replace springs after a few races.

[xxxmod]

Run the shock on the back of the clamp bracket. 9-2 shock
Don't have more than 2" of shock shaft showing at ride height
Short panhards suck for corner handling,run a 18" J bar
Z links on the RR are OK if you are on a heavy track where you can drive it sideways but
will not produce enough roll steer for a dry slick track.
Be aggresive with your RR upper bar because the clamp provides alot of initial traction.

[jsf74]

Isn't almost every pierce car out there clamped up on a z link and I thought most clamped cars were on short straight bars or had to run a straight bar?

[Dirtrunner35]

Correct with the straight bar., I take rear steer out on slick

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I had a bit of a brain fart when thinking about the lr shock. I was thinking on the floater.

[anissa5]

If you was going to run a lift bar with the clamp what would a good spring rate to run and how long should the lift bar be and how far out should you run the spring thanks anssa5

[jsf74]

Well I guess I'll clamp the lr and run a floated 4 bar on the right. Thanks

[anissa5]

Good set-up just remember if you need to free the car flip the top bar to z-link that should help less indexing when you do this

[JustAddDirt]

JSF74
the clamped LR and z link RR with spring on top is a very forgiving setup.
a good place to start with that is:
lf 750 rf700
LR225 rr225

40 lbs LR bite driver in car.
If you are running bigger high speed corner entry tracks, then you may need an 800 lf 750 rf.
shock packages will also dictate spring rates a bit as well, but the above springs will get you very close.

If you have the hook looking lightning clamp bracket with the ball swivel spring cup, you will need about 3-3.5" shock shaft showing. any less and you will break off the back side of the clamp bracket.

if track is heavy early have RR top bar toward bottom holes, as track slicks off raise RR bar up mount. top hole should be used in slick.
RR lower run 3rd hole up from bottom.
LR bottom bar 3rd hole up from bottom.
LR upper if I remember right 2nd hole up, should be about 40º at full drop.

[jsf74]

WOW awesome thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[langdonracing48]

JSF74the clamped LR and z link RR with spring on top is a very forgiving setup. a good place to start with that is:lf 750 rf700LR225 rr22540 lbs LR bite driver in car.If you are running bigger high speed corner entry tracks, then you may need an 800 lf 750 rf.shock packages will also dictate spring rates a bit as well, but the above springs will get you very close.If you have the hook looking lightning clamp bracket with the ball swivel spring cup, you will need about 3-3.5" shock shaft showing. any less and you will break off the back side of the clamp bracket.if track is heavy early have RR top bar toward bottom holes, as track slicks off raise RR bar up mount. top hole should be used in slick.RR lower run 3rd hole up from bottom.LR bottom bar 3rd hole up from bottom.LR upper if I remember right 2nd hole up, should be about 40º at full drop.

listen to this man jason. it's just like a bob pierce. it would be nice to see you ditch your slider for a coil over in front on lr, but it's not a have too. spring on top, z link rr is very forgiving as he said. very easy to drive. you will like it a lot. pierce suggest anywhere from 40 to 65 lbs bite depending on driver weight. in your case, i'd be around 55lbs. i like a 200lbs rr spring but there is nothing wrong with a 225. you're gonna love your new car. if you need any help at all you know how to get a hold of me buddy. i'd be more than happy to help.

[langdonracing48]

Isn't almost every pierce car out there clamped up on a z link and I thought most clamped cars were on short straight bars or had to run a straight bar?

your right here too. pierce makes a "scorpion" car that is not clamped and has a lot more adjustment, but it's easy to over do it and it's just not a very popular car. the clamped up car is the way to go.

[jsf74]

Hey thanks mike I'll hit u up this weekend buddy. I have almost two weeks off and want to get my car about ready.

[jsf74]

On the rr z-link spring mount how much should my lower mount be out compared to the upper. I'm assuming I should have the top of the spring slightly pointed in towards chassis.

[HEAVY DUTY]

On the rr z-link spring mount how much should my lower mount be out compared to the upper. I'm assuming I should have the top of the spring slightly pointed in towards chassis.

Try to get about 8 to 10 degrees of spring angle. Make sure to put the head of the upper birdcage bolt to the inside, for more spring clearance.

[jsf74]

Thanks don. Joey did say it was real close to the birdcage.