The short version is the turned stub is suppose to help keep corner speeds up by allowing the car to turn more freely. I bought a car with a turned stub (didnt know it at the time) the car turned like a dream but was always horribly loose and zero forward bite. Once I adjusted the car to act like it was square it improved. Given the choice I will never buy a turned stub car again.
If you are a traction racer than a turned stub is not for you.
If you are a momentum racer then a turned stub is for you.
Originally Posted by FLYNBRYAN
Very well said.
Exactly!!
If you like to throw the car in and run a ton of "wedge" or "LR" then if aint for you. If you drive it straight and keep the back end under you, you will probably like it.
Put your good eye on a Pierce car the stub is turned more on them than any other that I know of.Works real well on a clamped up setup,not so well on a springbehind setup they are turned so much they like to dogtrack down the straights if you let the LR get to high.
I thought pierce cars where turned 3/4 i know some that are turned more then that
You must have gotten a special one....lol 1 1/2to 2 inches is what i've measured and thats the total wheelbase bottom balljoint to rearend but i'm kinda get old and I may have forgotten to wear my glasses...lol
Most turned stub cars are in the neighborhood of 1 3/4" to 2". I would not call 3/4" turned. Most of the time if it is turned 3/4" that would make it almost straight up (On the chevelle stub) at least. The Chevelle from the factory was built with the RF behind the LF.
Curious that we spend more time congratulating people who have succeeded than encouraging people who have not.
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