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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    bear lake,PA
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    104

    Default how to add drive from center off on the gas?

    08 blue-grey rocket

    what would you all say seems to be the best way to add traction from center off on the gas? i know there are alot of things that go into it. but just saying that if your car was perfect getting in and to the center of the corner but when you tried to pick up the gas the traction just was not there. i usally just drop the lr bottom rod 1 hole for the feature which puts me in the 2nd hole from the bottom and its bad ass, but this week it was even more slick than normal so i raise my lr top rod one hole which put it up in the 4th hole up with the shorter bracket and the car was horrible. ever thing else was the same as we allways do it were usally one of the best cars. i was affraid of putting the lr bottom rod in the bottom hole because i have never had to do it? because i had raise the lr top rod the the 4th hole it had my lr sping compressed some so i couldnt add any wedge to it. which i usually dont but i was going to because it was so slick. personal i think i would have been better off not raising the lr top rod and just adding wedge or lowering the lr bottom rod. or even clamping the dummy shock but i have not done that before either. thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    I would have dropped the LR bottom bar again. The books will tell you dropping the LR bottom bar on the chassis tightens the car thru the corner but what we found was it tightened it up form the center off on the gas and did little to nothing to entry.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Moody, AL
    Posts
    163

    Default

    I like messing with the 5th shock/spring. It seems like to me, and I've had someone on here also agree with me on this, alot of your foward drive comes from the 5th. I would try somethin simple like adding rebound to the 5th shock when it goes to slick off. Should help you get in the throttle more and stay in it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    271

    Default

    What hole are you in with the 5th coil shock try moving it back if you can.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

    Default

    That's what I was going to ask. How far from the center of the rear is the fifth coil mounted? If you're just zinging the tires soon as you pick up the throttle and slow because you can't stay steady for peddling this is an area of interest for you. Move 5th coil back, stiffer spring, compression and rebound on the shock etc.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    bear lake,PA
    Posts
    104

    Default

    5th coil is in the 3rd hole from the back 35 1/2 i ran it all the way in the back last year then moved it forward some and it made it better. i have a 300 on it now. my tracks are blowing dust in hot laps but they dont take rubber. what how much stiffer shoudl i go on 5th coil spring?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,380

    Default

    What tires are you on, there are alot of ways to do this,rear%,stagger,left side%,drive smoother the track only has so much grip,length of rr bars or lr bars,j bar (middle of corner),there is alot you can do,i guess the question is are you looking for a little or alot???
    Last edited by grt74; 07-11-2012 at 09:16 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Moody, AL
    Posts
    163

    Default

    I moved mine all the way up and softened the 5th spring to 175 and it made it to where I could stab my throttle and the car would stick and get a good drive off

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,380

    Default

    i agree the 5th coil will help but if you get to soft it will hurt you too

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    I would focus on the bottom left bar. Lower it on the chassis and see if that doesn't do the trick. Keep lowering it until you pick up a bit of a throttle push and then you've gone too far. JMO

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    FLANAGAN, IL
    Posts
    879

    Default

    What will lowering the rrl bar do? Will it ad bite as well? ~Thanks~

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    If you were in top hole of shorten-er bracket, you were in no mans land (too much for short bar)without complementing other changes necessary!
    Last edited by jedclampit; 07-13-2012 at 03:30 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    654

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RACR_73s View Post
    What will lowering the rrl bar do? Will it ad bite as well? ~Thanks~
    takes roll steer out and tightens up, also increases indexing. don't think it adds bite
    Last edited by dualdj1; 07-13-2012 at 09:07 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    Bar adjustments do not add bite, the increase leverage and movement. To change bite you need to move weight or adjust springs. A bar adjustment can (and in the case of lowering the left bottom bar on the chassis will) add indexing which will add spring thru movement. So static bite NO, BUT when the chassis rolls over or the links come into play thru throttle, it does add to the LR.

    something to look at that will make a car great in the slick that will KILL it in the wet or tacky track are to low of a left side %, weight center to high in the car and, to much LR bite. When the track has plenty of traction any forward drive on the LR by the chassis is going to create a push on the gas. You need to get the RR tire to work to get that side of the car driving forward which will loosen the car up.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    4 Bar adjustments can, and sometime do affect lr bite #'s.
    The spring is what it is, you can change the leverage on, and rate of leverage application on that spring with 4 bar adjustments.
    Motion ratio is the wording used by some.
    Last edited by jedclampit; 07-13-2012 at 11:37 AM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    FLANAGAN, IL
    Posts
    879

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RACR_73s View Post
    What will lowering the rrl bar do? Will it ad bite as well? ~Thanks~
    I worded my question wrong...I ment will it add drive like lowereing the lrl bar? Sorry. ~Thanks~

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    654

    Default

    it can get more forward drive, because of the increased indexing and lower roll steer. it takes away LR drive angle though, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by RACR_73s View Post
    I worded my question wrong...I ment will it add drive like lowereing the lrl bar? Sorry. ~Thanks~
    Lowering your rr lower on the frame will add side bite to the car and decrease dynamic rear steer and drive angle of rr tire(tighter overall), if the added sidebite gets the car to scotch the rr, and roll the left rear up, you will have more forward drive because of the increased lr drive angle when you get back on the gas.



    I think you probably lost drop/travel @ the lr by using the 4th hole(reason why I say don't use it), and added more steer with the increased upper bar angle.
    So you took drive angle/dynamic wedge from LR (forward bite) away with the loss of travel and may have added steer (depending if car was rolled up) so you were looser also.....probably the case and that's why it sucked!

    A car on the hook HAS to have side bite/body roll to have GOOD forward drive on a slick track!!

    (An easy check of this is to move the lr upper from 3rd to 4th hole and see if your drop decreases)

    as a note.... you may find some Noticeable gains in forward drive with less rebound in your RF shock and possibly more lr spring
    Last edited by jedclampit; 07-13-2012 at 03:29 PM.

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