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a little help with tight in loose off
My car is tight getting in and loose off. Its a 3 link northern sport mod. Scale numbers lf 535 rf 489 lr677 rr 646 56.3 rear 51.6 left 31lbs lr bite Shocks are 3/5 rf 5/3 lf 5/3 lr 4 RRBar angles are 20° lr 2°rr Springs are rf 650 lf 600 rr175 lr200Any help would be great!
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More stagger or trail rr 1/4 inch. Improve entry and exit will be better.
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Would raising the right rear bar some help?
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Need to know if tight in ON or OFF the gas. Completely opposite adjustments.
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What adjustment would you make for off throttle and what adjustment for on throttle?? I think the left rear going negative would be a problem also lack of lr bite
Last edited by Duckhnter83; 03-30-2014 at 09:37 PM.
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Originally Posted by LM14
Add LR bite.
SPark
^^^This^^^
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I'll try adding more lr bite. But now that its mentioned is my angle OK on the RR bar would that cause it to go negative and have problems? When should a guy look at a RR bar adjustment?
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off the gas tight I would add bite. 20 makes a big difference on my car or raise some ballast if you have it higher and left.
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More bite is what I would do. I would add at least 100 pounds of bite.
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The car is tight and pushes on throttle
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2 link
Originally Posted by Duckhnter83
The car is tight and pushes on throttle
Sounds like a softer right front could help fix your issue. What stub are you on? Also raising your right side bar a hole or two will assist with loosening the car throughout the corner, but especially on entry.
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I kinda thread jacked but I am experiencing the same sorry redracer but hope the info tossed around here helped you as well.
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On a chevelle stub I would not run stiffer than 550 on RF. Go softer from there to free entry/middle. There is a huge fallacy that you need a big RF spring to help a 2 link get off the corner. Weight on the left rear tire is what gets a 2 link car off the corner. You don't need a big RF spring to do that. Once you get soft enough you will see the shaw and other setup stuff that says to stiffen right front to free car and soften to loosen. You are above the range will the car will effectively stay on the right front for long periods.If you don't want to soften the right front spring I would recommend putting a chunk of weight on your right front, or buying a crazy lock down shock for that corner. Too me both are severe crutch items that are junk, but you see guys doing it and being fairly fast with it. By crazy tie down I mean a 2 compression, 12 rebound valving or something in that range. Integra has some nice models that guys are using with valvings in that range.
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Add some bite first and try it. Then go exploring other options.
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Bite will affect on/off throttle handling differently, so make sure it is on throttle entry you are trying to fix. I kept adding bite to my car last year and it was doing the opposite of what I wanted it to do. Check out this link for tuning. http://www.afcodynapro.com/file/1320...JmyZITb6b3mG1o
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Having two guys asking questions and getting answers on the same thread will make this really confusing.
To the OP, put 120# of bite in the car and try it. Make a fairly big swing at it. This will loosen under braking and tighten on the throttle.
To the Hijacker, if you are tight going in and still on the throttle, have your crew watch you and see if you are driving in deeper than others around you. Just because you can accelerate doesn't mean you should. Sometimes it's not the car, it's the driver causing the problem. Not saying that is happening but I see a lot of guys drive too deep and cause a push. If that's the case, add more gear.
SPark
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The left side percentage is pretty low.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -3
Atomic - 2
Moler - 1
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Left rear bite. Start at 70lbs left rear heavy and add from there. Its not uncommon to see a 3 bar car in the 120-150 range, sometimes even a little more. Don't be afraid to add bite.
Last edited by langdonracing48; 04-06-2014 at 06:22 AM.
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