I have always run a steel drive shaft with a ball spline made from Wiles and never had any problems did this for 13 years of racing maybe it is wrong set up and in proper maintenance that's is causing the problems I know some people like to stretch there equipment longevity way to long.
Funny you mention a steel drive shaft because I was called by my friend in our weekly post racing call this morning and he said that guy has put a steel driveshaft in now.I was told this guy has broken 2 drivelines in one month. The first was a driveshaft the second was the yoke/output shaft of the transmission. This indicates to me a very likely improper driveline angle, as breaking a driveline twice in a month is most likely more than bad luck and at very least not inspecting all parts the first time in my mind. I hope that steel bad boy doesn't get loose and fly around.
I don't understand why people run ball splines ... Plenty of Crown Jewels are won without ball splines and the potential driveshaft tearing the car up issue .
I have never broke a driveshaft in 25 years of dlm racing. I consider some of that is luck but the majority is good maintenance. Also, I only used Spicer u-joints not the el cheapos at the local auto part stores.
I don't understand why people run ball splines ... Plenty of Crown Jewels are won without ball splines and the potential driveshaft tearing the car up issue .
I never understood it either, I looked at them when they first came out and realized how much extra maintenance was involved compared to the little performance gain I could see and have always stayed with the regular trans and never had any problem....knock on wood....
What exactly is the safety benefit of a carbon fiber drive shaft? Is the strength? Of will it shatter if it comes out? I got one with my car but assumed it was more for rotating weight.
If it breaks it will shatter instead of hitting your elbow and destroying the interior the x the loop etc. Basically tearing up everything in its path. We don't run a ballspline and broke a lift bar this year and it destroyed the deck the oil cooler the fifth coil and the shaft even managed to smash the oil tank on its way out so ya ballspline=carbon fiber shaft.
Carbon fiber is always a good idea. So what it breaks and you maybe lose a 10k race. This is a 10k hospital bill. Yoke broke, and the shaft became a can opener and propeller of destruction until I locked the rear brakes up. Tore everything out and apart from the battery in the back to the cables of the starter, to the wiring right out from the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit, It wraps anything up it snags and the only thing that saved my life was the battery cable tethered it so tight that the cable actually twisted and imprinted deep into the driveshaft tube
I never understood it either, I looked at them when they first came out and realized how much extra maintenance was involved compared to the little performance gain I could see and have always stayed with the regular trans and never had any problem....knock on wood....
I'm not sure what you are saying is more maintence on them. We used them with an Alum shaft back in 03 and just cleaned greased them after 10-15 races. Not anymore work than a regular trans. But i agree i would never personally own one, looking back i'm suprised he did and it may of been because of a sponsorship deal not totally sure.
I have never ran one powerslide, but was told they really needed cleaning and checking more like every 2 to 3 races , which consisted of pulling shaft and taking the slip yoke apart, don't know for sure, just what Ive been told by several people.
Just got a pic sent to me of that broken ballspline. This is the second failure in less than a month, the first was a broken driveshaft yoke I am told. After looking at the picture I can't see how a steel driveshaft is going to solve anything? If you do not fix what is breaking the driveline all a steel shaft would do is have a bigger bat swinging around when it breaks again!
I made that mistake, broke a torque arm, broke the driveshaft, replaced it and promptly broke another, rear yoke had cracked and was destroying U-Joints. I finally learned my lesson...
Ask Jeremy Clements about running a steel drive shaft!
On July 24, 2004, Jeremy suffered an injury that threatened his racing career while running his No. 51 Late Model at 311 Speedway in Madison, NC. The torque arm broke under his car and sent a steel driveshaft piercing through his (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit, almost removing his right hand. Initially doctors predicted that he would be lucky to have any movement at all in the hand. Jeremy underwent 8 surgeries and months of physical therapy to regain use of his right hand.
Just if you think it NEVER happens or only rare read on
(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) Barton moved his foot. He felt no pain.
Then he touched his hip. He found no blood.
Except for a bruised hip, Barton survived the first broken driveshaft of his 36-year dirt racing career.
After breaking away from his Super Late Model, the steel driveshaft -- a mechanical device shaped like a long, thin tube that transfers engine power to the rear of the car -- broke through a protective aluminum plate and crashed into Barton's seat.
"All I felt was that thud," said Barton, of Ashville, N.Y.
But his injuries in that 2008 race at Stateline Speedway could have been much worse.
"The deadliest thing on the car is the driveshaft," said Late Model racer Scott Johnson, a Wattsburg native. "(The) most bodily injury that you're ever going to get is from the driveshaft unless it's a total disaster rollover. The only thing between you and that driveshaft is one (safety) hoop and that little bit of aluminum (and) steel that's supposed to stop it."
Racers consider that thought when they decide between steel, aluminum and carbon fiber driveshafts.
Then they answer one question. What's more important -- cost or safety?
Steel and aluminum driveshafts are cheaper -- $100-$275 compared to $650-$750 for carbon fiber.
Steel and aluminum driveshafts are more dangerous. A steel driveshaft broke Late Model veteran John Lobb's elbow and severed an artery in his arm during a 2004 race at Eriez Speedway.
He missed two months of the season while recovering from those injuries. Worse, he lost time and money at work.
Last season, he broke two carbon fiber driveshafts in consecutive races. They disintegrated instead of crashing into the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit. He wasn't hurt either time.
"It's a pretty good insurance policy," said Lobb, of Frewsburg, N.Y. "Yes, it's $500 more. But can you afford to be off from work for several weeks?"
North East native Terry Akerly, a Lake Erie Speedway veteran, has a heavy duty driveshaft -- similar to what are found in trucks -- in his SportMod.
No more regular steel for him, not after barely escaping injury in a 2007 Street Stock race.
The driveshaft twisted and broke before ripping a big hole in the floor.
"That one (isn't) breaking," he said of the heavy duty driveshaft.
Barton still uses a regular steel driveshaft.
"It's probably foolish," Barton said, since he isn't certain why his team hasn't changed to carbon fiber.
Perhaps it's a cost issue. Perhaps his team still believes driveshafts don't break because other faulty parts cause them to break. Another broken part caused his driveshaft-related mishap last season, he said.
Other drivers point to wear and tear as the cause.
Akerly's broken driveshaft was the original on his 1977 Street Stock.
"They can only take so much for so long," he said.
Driveshafts face a tremendous amount of horsepower and torque as they spin. Johnson's motor turns at 9,000 rpm in a race. Barton's motor surged from 8,500 rpm to 10,000 rpm once the driveshaft broke.
"I know it's wheeling," Johnson said.
Some drivers never discover the cause. But they all know "they're very dangerous," Barton said.
A week after Barton's incident, Johnson's team purchased a carbon fiber driveshaft. Two weeks ago at Eriez, Johnson remembered why he has one.
He watched Late Model racer Ron Bem, of Union City, suffer multiple leg bruises from a broken driveshaft. Afterwards, Johnson's team found it bent into a U-shape and snapped the safety hoop.
Driveshafts are a part of teams' weekly inspections. LES officials require thorough inspections, including driveshafts, before allowing cars on the track. But finding potential problems is challenging. Even with visual inspections, the smallest fractures that lead to breaks are difficult to detect.
So every weekend on the track, "There's always that thought in the back of your mind," Lobb said. "Nobody wants to get hurt."
i always ran a driveshaft loop that is round, not square half a.. ones that come in the car. i took a weight clamp and a 2 inch by 1/4 aluminum strap drilled a hole in one end of the strap bent it over a 5 gallon bucket and did some hand-vise massaging then when u got a nice circle put a 1/2 bolt thru both holes and mount it on the x member near the front of the driveshaft so if it does come apart it dropd in the circle and just sits there and spins. no more tor up x members no more tore up drivers and it maybe weighed 3 lbs and cost 25 bucks a 1hr of time. i never had a d/s fail but i always ran that. dont know if it woulda held up or not but i felt better anyway
Originally Posted by lovinlatemodels
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