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Spring change
If you have a car that is pushing like crazy do you soften or stiffen the RF? I now have a LF 650 and RF 550. Tried other chassis changes with little or no improvement. Thanks
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on the gas-soften rf
off the gas-soften lf
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I just discovered I have a LF brake that is dragging. That seems like it would pull me down into the corner though. Rotor seems to be worn badly on the inside.
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is the RF traveling? Inside of rotor sometimes hits the lower control arm if you are turning left a lot(pushing). Where is the car tight?
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RF is using all but 1/2 inch of shock travel. Entering. Will not turn.
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It's a metric clip. Shocks all good. I'm still thinking it might be brakes. LF doesn't spin freely and has a grinding sound. When I pry the caliper piston back, spins and doesn't have a grinding sound.
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Get your brakes straightened out. Even up your frt springs. Lf stiffer will stick your RR too hard on entry...soften it up it will turn. Maybe take a little rake out of jbar
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Take the spring out, put the shock back on, cycle the RF until the shock is at that last 1/2in of travel. I'm going with the frame is hitting the lower a-arm.
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Do you have nova lowers or stock metric lowers?
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Take your RF spring out, and run it through its travel with the RF shock hooked up. You will probably find that something is bottoming before the shock. A 550 on the RF of a metric car with stock metric a frames is WAAAAAY too soft. If it is nova lowers it is 100 lbs too soft. You are probably bottoming out something giving you a solid suspension which is causing your push. If the lf brake is dragging and/or locking up, the car should be very loose on entry. Fix the brake issue, and then check your shock travel without a spring. If you have stock metric lowers, put a 1000 in the rfand a 900 lf.
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I have nova lowers with pinto spindles. I just got done swapping the front springs(moved 650 to RF and 550 to LF) Replaced caliper also. I have run 550 on both sides before and had no problems. Sometimes I would change RF to a 600. Readjusted ride heights-rear were real close but fronts were off too much. Tomorrow I will take springs out and check. Don't really think that is the problem, but better safe than sorry. Also notice my LR rise was a little too much so I shorten that two turns. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer9x
Throw 600-650s in front and depending on track do 200 LR and 175-225 RR. Moving 1/2" on rf you can easily do just by bouncing on front bumper. Think there is something binding if only achieving 1/2" of travel. Btw what shocks?
He uses ALL but the last 1/2 inch as it says above.
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RF shock is a AFCO revalved by shock man and it is a tie down. SCD is right; I use all but the last 1/2", which is what we always shoot for.
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you haven't said entering on or off the gas
on gas I would be looking at rear steer, trail the rr back 2 turns more
If off the gas front springs can play more of a roll but rear steer still is a factor, off the gas your down to whatever initial rear steer you set at ride height like on your scales etc.
lf brake would free u up on entry unless you've got no rear brake or improperly working rear brakes.
do you run a lr brake floater? that frees you up on entry and allows you to run a tighter car every place else. when its right I really like it, my first car didn't seem to like it and I never got it right my new car its great.
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It's kind of weird; it really doesn't want to turn whether I'm off gas or on gas. Off gas is worse, but on gas it just seems to want to go straight off the corner faster. I've got some work to do(this is a different car than last year-soo)
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Yes I do have a LR brake floater. I'll have to recheck rear steer, can't remember what it is off my head.
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Brake Floater in the hands of an inexprienced driver/crew chief is just another tool to dial the car out. Plenty of other stuff to work with until you are in the ballpark
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Originally Posted by pig tracker
Yes I do have a LR brake floater. I'll have to recheck rear steer, can't remember what it is off my head.
Honestly if you cant remember then its likely not where it needs to be there is a reason the same guys are usually up front, they are ensuring every detail is correct when they leave their shop.
I have marks on my frame I measure rear steer to axle tube distance it seems real critical on these 4 bar cars to me. I can change my car from tight to loose with a few turns of the rs bars.
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On a Bob Pierce car I crewed for, it was too tight with a 650lf, 600rf. I put a 600 in lf and freed it up, then I just adj bars for various track conditions.
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I can't remember what I did an hour ago, that's why I write everything down in my book. I have it written down but don't remember if it is 1/4" or 1/2". I think it is the front springs also. I've never ran with a softer spring on RF before and I think this is my problem. The car is not a four-bar car it is a long spear-rod. New animal to me. I knew it would take awhile to dial in.
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