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Good luck and update us on what you did and how it works out.
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have you tried taking a few degrees of ignition timing out of it? reason i ask is we use to run a unit inside the car that you could adjust the timing while on the track , until they banned it , best trick we ever tried to reduce wheel spin on a slick track......
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Yes 7 degrees lol
Originally Posted by fastford
have you tried taking a few degrees of ignition timing out of it? reason i ask is we use to run a unit inside the car that you could adjust the timing while on the track , until they banned it , best trick we ever tried to reduce wheel spin on a slick track......
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wow , that should have knocked it in the head.......
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I run up front but I’m going to work on setup too. Balance rear drive better. A combo of all the advice should take care of it
Originally Posted by fastford
wow , that should have knocked it in the head.......
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No update yet car has been out on the jig!
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Be cautious with the slower timing, that can be hard on the engine. EGT readings will change.
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Originally Posted by 7uptruckracer
No update yet car has been out on the jig!
On the jig since March when you started this post? So zero races this season?
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Started this post while I was racing Car got destroyed May 26th, running up front but someone dive bombed me, and junked it head on into the wall. Well known chassis guy in this area and he still has it as of today....Only ran 6 races I believe this year.
Originally Posted by stock car driver
On the jig since March when you started this post? So zero races this season?
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Hate to hear that. I know how it is to lose a good car.
Did you ever make any changes to it and if so, how did it do?
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Never did, some of this post happened after the wreck, I should pickup the car tomorrow and will have some more shows I can make. I'm going to talk to motor builder after I test it in a week or so. I've gone to a stiffer RR and stiffer ride springs in the front I was really soft and I think it was spiking wheel loads on the bumps too soon on entry and causing it to shear the RF, I need it to be at max load right before apex and the LF needs to stay on the bump all the way through exit the track only has 6* of banking so keeping the LF down is tough. Should help my cause all the way around and the motor deal The handling might help but we need to go to a cam that just isn't so peaky
Originally Posted by hpontap
Hate to hear that. I know how it is to lose a good car.
Did you ever make any changes to it and if so, how did it do?
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might suprise you, we did a 13:1 406 with 14* RHS Iron heads with 235 cc runners that flowed 345 CFM, big roller cam, played with it on Dyno with 850 4 bbl made 702 HP, decided for sh!ts and grins to put the gauge legal VDL 4412 on it, and it shocked us with 536 HP, but nosed over at 7200
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That's impressive HP on gauge legal 2 barrel
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I'd try adjusting the throttle ratio and linkage so that the throttle pedal travel remains the same but the carb only opens say 1/2--3/4 of the way, what ever you feel is enough. This works surprisingly well, and the driver doesn't really notice the difference since pedal travel remains the same. Its a quick easy adjustment and doesn't require an engine tear down.
Josh K.
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My carb builder was adamant against that. We have gotten some restrictor plates and also just going to take some cam out well try to spread the power around instead of what I thought I wanted it to do which didn’t work. Yes it makes great power which would fly at one of the 1/2 mile banked tracks but I will rarely run that track so I need to knock it down I’ll keep y’all posted!
Originally Posted by fast_crew
I'd try adjusting the throttle ratio and linkage so that the throttle pedal travel remains the same but the carb only opens say 1/2--3/4 of the way, what ever you feel is enough. This works surprisingly well, and the driver doesn't really notice the difference since pedal travel remains the same. Its a quick easy adjustment and doesn't require an engine tear down.
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