08 Mastersbilt, 602. The car has a LR brake floater. I am thinking of locking it. What are advantages of it. I see it keeping the car up on the bars when braking. Are they ran much or driver preference. I haven't driven this car yet to know.
LR Brake Floater?
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we ran a lf rear floater for years , but after the newer trend of the soft rt frt and the bump or 2 stage stuff came out , we did not need it any more , if your chassis is not designed to run this set up , i would use it , it will help your car turn tremendously , the one we ran came from port city racing and was a bearing unit that jimmy owens helped them design , you also will need the most aggressive brake pad on lf rear you can get , we ran the brake bar at about the same angle as the upper 4 bar , just be sure it cant cam over , after we went to the soft rt front , we did not need it to promote rear steer , but im always trying stuff , so one night i decided to try it with the new set up and it did not work at all , it felt like it would try to bounce the whole car of the ground , its easy to switch back and forth so i would defiantly try it , especially with a crate engine....JMO.....
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Once you get it in the correct hole, it isn't going to move anyway.Originally posted by ace1 View PostThis car has the large hole brackets and I wasn't sure if I would like not having one hole for bar adjustment. I may leave everything set up so I can unlock it and try it. It is a bearing type floater.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I haven't run one since then. Not sure if you could argue it's not a part of the suspension, but an extra rod is probably gonna cause an argument at best.Originally posted by Jking24 View PostBe careful some of the " anti rumley " rule changes have outlawed brake floaters. We've never ran them so i can't comment otherwiseModern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I won't have to worry about that where I'm at. I could probably run one and get away with it. Once I find the position of the floater that works best, it will stay at that position when making bar changes, correct? I shouldn't move it with the top bar?
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the last time we ran it , we were one hole up from the upper 4 bar , and about 1/2 inch longer than that bar , but you have to use some trial and era here because there is difference in chassis , but thats where i would start , one other thing to consider is dynamic load placed on the lft rear tire , this helps the car turn in easier so sometimes you dont need as much dynamic rear steer generated by the 4 bars , and not as much static bite , also , i kind of looked at it like a tractor with a left and right brake pedal , the static load placed on the left rear tire will plant that tire and help pull the front around , at any rate , its still a balancing act but on the older set ups , when you find that sweet spot , it is fast........
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What I was trying to say before, is it is very rare to make bar changes period these days. Especially lr upper on frame.Originally posted by ace1 View PostI won't have to worry about that where I'm at. I could probably run one and get away with it. Once I find the position of the floater that works best, it will stay at that position when making bar changes, correct? I shouldn't move it with the top bar?Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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