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I have a 604 that is getting up to 220 and sometimes 230 during and after the feature. I am running a 4 blade fan with an all star shroud, double pass griffin radiator, 5/8 restrictor in thermostat housing. I replaced the water pump before saturday thinking it was a little weak and it still got over 220 after the feature. Timing is set at 32. The only thing else I know to do is change out the pulleys, the one on the water pump is what looks to be a 4inch and the one on the crank is a 2 inch. Could that have alot to do with it? What else can i do to try to keep it in the 200-210 range?
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There have been numerous posts about under-driving the water pump. The general consensus is; run the water pump at 1:1. And there are as many posts concerning restrictors. And it flip flops between it being outdated technology and "it will never fail like a thermostat". Personally I run my engine without either, but I think this varies from car to car and engine to engine.
I don't think I would say that is over heating though. With a good radiator cap the boiling point of the water is much higher then you are running. As long as its not spitting water out the overflow tube I think you are good. You could remove the restrictor and try it that way. You could also build a shroud in front of the radiator to try and deflect more air to it.Last edited by joedoozer; 06-20-2011, 09:00 AM.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well. -
well first off get that restictor out of the t stat housing snd put a fail safe t stat in it ,
restrictors dont work with the motors very well, second off and this may sound stupid is how far is you fan away from the raditor? your pulleys maybe an issue also ill measure my set in a little while and let you know we have run the same pulleys for 5 plus seasons and never had a overheating issue,also how it the fan sitting in the shroud, should be sitting about half way in, one other thought how old is the fan blade and is it facing the correct way? i personally stopped using the 4 blades and went back to a six blade that was smaller....Comment
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I forgot to mention joe, when i lift the red lock latch on the radiator cap it spits water out the overflow line(when its hot and when its about 160-180. I will take the restrictor out and try it. To answer the question about the fan it is 1 yr old four blade fan it is half in half out of the shroud and about 3 inches from the radiator.Comment
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It will spit water out when you lift the latch, because the system is no longer pressurized. As long as it doesn't spit the water out the tube with the latch closed.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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The double pass radiator is a restriction all by itself. The water has to move more than twice as fast through it as a regular radiator and then make a u turn. The dead area in the radiator turns kills flow.
Pitch the restrictor and chaek the cap. 220 is NOTHING to worry about, the factory cars these came in did not red line until 230-250.Comment
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So ego you are saying take the restrictor out and dont run one? Someone else said that also and I will try it. What pound radiator cap do yall suggest running I can't remember what mine is I want to say an 18 or 22 maybe. I forgot to add earlier but the top radiator hose swells up really big when hot, is that due to the restriction of the double pass?Comment
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Go to stewart components and look thru the frequent questions and the tech tips. http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Originally posted by msudawg2004 View PostComment
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The swelling is probably just a cheap or old hose.Originally posted by msudawg2004 View PostCrew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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are you running an oil cooler?Comment
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are you allowed to run a remote filter? we have wanted to run a cooler but have been told that the sandwich type isnt that good, and the oil filter must be in the stock location.Comment
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nope I don't have an oil cooler on this motor.Comment
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an oil cooler will help quite a bit, UMP never said anything about a remote filter and i know that a few mod guys run the sandwhich type....the only i have ever heard about the oiling system is that it must be wet sump with no external oil pumpsComment
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thats similar to what our rules say. must be a wet sump motor with internal pump only. oil filter must remain in stock location. SO....i will have to ask this weekend if we are allowed to run a sandwich style or if that would be considered changing the "stock location"Originally posted by TDR View Post
the only reason we know the oil filter must be in the stock location is because when we had our hood off tuning the carb one night someone must have peered in and saw we had a tank with a filter on the bottom of it right in front of the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit and told an official. they came over and checked it and saw that it was a power steering reservoir with a filter built on to it (came with the car when we bought it and we never changed back to a regular reservoir without filter)Comment
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We run 25 laps on a 5/8 mile hammer down track and turn our 604 6900 rpm the whole race with oxygenated fuel and a prc standard flow radiator with a -16 upper hose and a serpentine system from krc and a 4 blade fan half outta shroud 2 inches from radiator and never get over 180... The ticket is a good rad and the -16 upper hose Personally would stay away from double pass radiatorsComment
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