Fan and fuel

[BTDT]

I have been chasing around and can not find these answers and I know they are here so I will ask again.

The fan that uses the least horsepower (part # and mfg.)

The Gas (not E-85) that makes the best power in a 604.

Your patience with my computer dumbness is greatly appreciated

[ptodd]

the fan is a cv 15" 4 blade. the best fuel is vp chp make sure you get a carb for chp and a good pump like a cv 2508 with a spin-fr-2000 regulator take the jet out of it and tap the hole and put a plug in it. i use nothing but stealth carbs. if you want just race gas use vp you can get your fan and pump and regulator from cv products or i can get all that you need just let me know.

[Always Last]

ptodd I just got some vp CHP and seen your post about the fuel pump and regulator. I don't know what the reasons are you need these different pump and regulator but im looking for someone that uses this fuel that can tell me what to do to set everything up properly so i dont have and issues at the track. I currently have a carter M 4891 Pump and a Holley 12-803 Regulator. If you got some time to help me out it would be much appreciated. phone 605-254-8534 Thanks

Nick

[50j]

BTDT, VP CHP, Renegade Rat Man, or Sonoco GT Plus for fuel. Carb set up for Oxygenated fuel from Braswell, JDR, Willy's, or Stealth. CV Pumps are nice, but not the only one that'll work. Ditto on the fan. E-85 would be the way to go though.

[SRXSRULE]

I have seen several different fan tests posted on the internet. Many of these test are not done in a car, with a shroud, radiator, shaker screens, and a nose. I have seen numbers posted anywhere from 20-45hp to drive a fan.....MY test, in my car, on a chassis dyno shows nothing even close to that. I tested three different fans, and NO fan. The best fan I have only takes 7-8 HP to run, The worst fan is 10-12hp. I didnt care about air-flow or cooling performance from the fans I was just looking at HP usage. Eric

[dynoman14]

BTDT,
I would get that info from the person that built your crate or the person that built your crate carb. My stuff on CHP runs 10-14*initial& 30-32* full and + 6-8 on jets and down 3-4 on high speed bleeds. I run an extended tip plug to jack up the early flame and I usually let the primary PV come in at 7.5 & secondary come in 5.5-6.5 depending on engine vacuum.

If you need your dizzy and carb matched to your fuel I do about 5+ a week now. Average gains are 10-15 rwhp with carb making another 10-15rwhp. If you don't believe me ask Willy Krupp.

[DaveBauerSS6]

Dyno... what carb do you use and why? Have you tried carbs that you don't like?

[dynoman14]

Dave,
Maybe you should do some thread pulling...

I have been building my own carbs for 25+ years. I test 10-20 per week as my policy for the last 20 years has been this...

I will dyno test any clean and running carb for FREE and let you know what kind of power it makes on my DYno mule 604 car. I have tested about 2500 crate carbs in the last 10 years. My comments are in other posts and most folks don't like them much but about 75% of every race carb I have ever tested does not run as good as the original spec carb for the series the 650HP Holley.


What carburetors do I use???
I use my carburetors for a couple reasons;

#1 - I consider the acceleration rate of the engine and matching the burn rate of the fuel you run to be the most important factor in a spec / crate engine making power.

#2 - The most important factor in a caburetor is the ability to deliver the fuel to the engine in a form that it can use it, and in my opinion that is in a foamy mixture I have referred to as emulsified fuel. People have complained about that terminology but I guess they would not have referred to the jet wells as emulsion columns or emulsion tube in early manuals if they did not emulsify the fuel with air. Kinda like the way Kraft Patented the emulsification of food starch with oil and water making the most profitable food product on earth...MIRACLE WHIP and yes I worked there for 5 years and know the secret...

#3 - Low compression engines with low piston speed and very high vacuum don't like the same things real race engines with High compression, high piston speed and low vacuum... like in fuel mixture so I do things a lot different than everybody else.

#4 - I consider the ignition system to be part of the fuel system as it is the catalyst and the fuel is the accelerant for the combustion process so they have to work hand in hand to get things done. I match my fuel delivery curve in the carb, to the timing curve in the distributor, to the burn curve that best suits the engine.

With those considerations it will become readily evident that not too many people go to the extent that I do when building a carb for an engine. I do still sell a Stage 1 +10RWHP $1250 and a Stage 2 +20RWHP $1500 are each 5-10HP increments above a 650HP as well as the Stage 3+ 25-30RWHP and Stage4 carbs +35-40RWHP.

I stopped selling stage 3 and 4s about 4 years ago and will only sell them with complete engine packages. Stage 3 is $1750 option & Stage 4 carb is a $1950 option, you can buy it or use your own and I will dyno the best you can get and show you the differences. My engine dyno testing is done at 2 independent engine builders shops.

Carbs I don't like -
The only carbs I really don't like are the filthy dirty ones and I charge $50 extra to clean them.

I have had great luck with Willy's stuff and spent a couple days at his shop on the chassis dyno with a couple customers. He has a good handle on the what the carb is doing and I don't have to change a lot to make them real good. I use different tuning tools and methods than most so my results are way different. I also like BLP's stuff as I have known Bo and his son Mike for 25 years. I used to drive from Atlanta to Orlando about 4 times a year to pick up big orders just to see what was going on. I bought a ton of Mikes Oiler valve covers and other trick stuff for BGN, CTS & ARCA engines.
His new inertia dyno should REVOLUTION-ize race engine building.

I have not found a carb yet that can't be improved with a little work. I have seen some that are close to ruined when the boosters are bored out and the holes in the center body are way big but that can all be taken care of with aluminum or brass plugs and boosters can be sleeved or replaces so unless it is a total piece of junk it can be fixed.

Some of them Chinese Aluminum Holley copies can be a night mare as you have to check every single hole on them to make sure they are correct so I usually have an extra $100-$150 making them right.