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we seem to have the same problem with our brake bias adjuster every year. its not a problem of twisting until its out of adjustment then cranking on it some more either. i got a new one on order for this weekend from speedway and i hope it makes it on time. are the knob type more reliable than the crank type? is there something i am missing?
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I have a crank type, and never had a problem with it. And from the looks of it, it seems to be original to the car. 2000 Warrior. What does your seem to be doing/or not doing?Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well. -
well first off ill say the car sits outside, and tarped, from the last race in october until we get it back in the garage early april. and after the first race of the year, every year, going on 4 years, the rubber hose that connects the crank to the adjuster on the master cylinders either sheers off or is so week that it just twists the rubber hose until it sheers. the actual adjuster itself on the cylinders is fairly free so it does not appear to be that binding. im just at a loss. i ordered one from speedway that appears to be a braded line hoping this will help. just frustrating the hell out of me....ive spend like $300 or something like that on brake bias adjusters now when i could have spend that money in alot of different places.
im thinking im going to be without one this weekend. so im just going to have to set the adjustmet where i think is best and hope im close.
on another topic, do you like your 2000 warrior? im thinking of picking up an 01 warrior chassis with decking and body only pretty cheap. any drawbacks and is it pretty easy to find info about these cars?Comment
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It's only my second year racing but I like the car. The base line set ups that you can print out from the website are waaay old school and not even close to whats on the car now. Still pictures of the car on the the track and travel indicators have helped alot in getting it to where it is now. The only thing I "wish" the car had was more adjustment on the chassis for the 4 link. It only has 3 spots on the bottom and 5 on the top. But overall I like the car.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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As for info. The guys at Warrior are great. They answer the phone when you call, and are very helpful. And they have a parts list online of all the chassis parts for the year of your car.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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we have an 01 shaw now. seems to be an ok car, however we find it really hard to get much info on them. our friends who have shaw mods get all kinds of support....old cars and new, however seem to be lacking in the late model support department. seem to get mostly yep, nope, uh huh, I see kinda answers. just thinking about moving stuff around to get more info outa another chassis builder.
on a side note, do you run an expansion tank for your radiator or do you just run the hose out and down somewhere?Comment
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I run the hose up through a hole in the decking. Right in the corner behind the RF fender. So it's visible from the seat.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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That's where we run our overflow hose also...Up the right cage tube...He will definitely see if the radiator blows water!!...LOLComment
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That's where it use to be on mine. And it blew hot water on me in the corner once. So I moved it to the corner of the deck.Originally posted by sj valley dave View PostCrew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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yeah we have ours ran around the motor and exiting the car downward because we were unsure if it would spray on me. i think i will go ahead and run it out the decking on the far right side as far away as i can. so if it does start coming out i dont get hit much if at all but still be able to see it.
how hot would the motor have to get before it started shooting out with a 32lb cap anyways?Comment
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Mine will push out water around 250.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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dang, i got a crate motor, if i get to 230, i pull off. hasnt happened in a long time, but i dont trust these things over 220 for very long.Comment
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It's only happened twice. Spit the water pump belt off once, and the second time the radiator was completely clogged with mud. It's an iron head motor, so it doesn't bother me much. It's not like it's a weekly problem.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.Comment
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sorry joe, i was just stating that i should never get wet because i cant let my motor get that hot. these (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) crates seem tojust start to melt above 240. atleast in my previous experiences.Comment
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