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Im thinking about trying to make the switch to a crates next year, and was wondering what the most expensive weekly cost is?? Im running a b-mod now that is basicly a IMCA mod with a 2-barrel and with the payouts, its not worth it... at least with the crates, there are some big money shows through the year... any help is appreciated, thanks in advance...
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I help a guy with his crate late model and to me the biggest expense is the tires. We are limited to the 40's and 55's only so you dont have to buy and haul around all of the different compounds. The 604 is a very reliable engine and knock on wood he never had a failure. He did change oil and the filter every few nights. As far as fuel we ran a 50/50 mix of 93 premium and 114 race fuel. I dont know what all goes into a b-mod but if anything gets tore up on these cars its expensive. Having a different selection of shocks, springs, and quickchange gears are good. You could go the extra mile with your 604 and have it dynoed. I dont know what part of the country you are in if you have to travel far every weekend. Here in the metro St.Louis area we have 2 tracks that run crates on a weekly basis and the PCRA series which travels around all over Illinois. Best of luck to you. -
Thank you very much for the info, this is something im still kicking around, so we'll just have to see what happens.... thanks again...Comment
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have to agree with gumby that tires are your #1 expense once you establish a cost effective driveline and chassis program (wrecking can consume the budget very quickly as well)
keep in mind your travel as well---with gas prices near $4 and most haulers don't get real good mileage that also needs to be in the equasion
whatever the cost---once your hooked you won't stop-----I actually think it is an illness LOL
BradComment
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Another reason i was thinking about the change is a big b-mod show is 400 to win and there are several crate races within 2 hours of my house, through the year, that are 1000$ to win or more.. but i can race my b-mod at 2 different tracks weekly that are within 15 miles... i will probably stay with the b-mod for another year or two and then try to make the change.... thanks so much for everyones input.....Comment
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Read this in a magazine once
"if you cant park your car on the infield then light it on fire without being financialy ruined you in the wrong sport"Comment
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That is definatly one way to look at it.... i had mod completly destroyed by a lap car 3 years ago and was able to get another roller in fantastic shape for a heck of a deal, but with the motor rules in the class im in, as long as it has steel heads and no roller cam and a 2 barrel, the sky is the limit.... guys are spending crazy amounts of money on heads alone, so i was thinking about the crate deal to help on motor costs, but if the cars are that much more expensive to repair, i am probably better off with what im doing... i think the crate racing would be more of a driver type racing, but if guys are beating their way to the front, i could see it getting very expensive, very quick!!!Comment
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Never had a mod but i have been running a crate in my late model for 4 years no rebuilds just oil and valve springs,as far as repairs and parts it will be pretty close to what you spend now i would bet. late model will be more costly to get started but you can still find great deals out there example my engine is for sale 604 with headers D.U.I ignition,moroso blue max wires,Holly crate carb,flexplate,water pump,pulleys,radiator,hoses,carb spacer,fan, sweet power steering pump,carter fuel pump and fuel log for $3500 Has alot of laps but still runs strong and has been well taken car of.Comment
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It is hard to beat a crate for reliable HP.
I like to see my engines back every season to keep them up at top HP. They tend to be down about 20-25hp after 1000 laps. From what I have seen most of the power loss is from dirt in the oil killing the ring seal. Frequent oil changes and proper filtration at the Carb is critical. Not too many other places to get dirt into the engine.
I have also seen major gains or losses in how racers adjust their valves and how they maintain that or lack there of ( 15-20 HP ). If you run without proper adjustment it only takes about a race to kill the valve job seal. If you have a leak-down gauge these losses are very easy to track.
I see Pavement 604's run close to 2 years without significant losses in RWHP and I attribute that to the lack of dirt in the oil.
I also see a lot of HP losses in drivetrain mis-alignment and the trans being crammed into the rear of the crank causing bad results with the rear main bearing. ( 20-30 HP ).
I also see a lot of damage to valve seats over-revving valve springs and lifters, once you hurt them there is no getting better but to replace them. It is possible to over come this with good selected springs, old German Valve Springs or my Electro-Mechanical Treated Stock GM Springs. I have sold 2500+ sets in the last 10 years and have "ZERO" failures to date.
Customer reported dyno tests report back to me +500rpms and as much as 15-20HP. I retreat them every 10 races to keep them charged. I have had the same 2 sets of springs in rotation on my ChassisDYno mule 604 for 6 years, I swap them out every 500 pulls.Comment
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