which one would you use in a crate late model?
true trac or spool?
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Spool, I know of several people that have tried traction sensing rears and all are back to spools. We ran them asphalt and they were a maintenance item and had to be adjusted for the different tires we ran, one series allowed soft tires and one very hard. I can not even begin to think what it would take to keep one set right for the transitions that a dirt track goes thru in one night.
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If you were running an older car, say mono-leaf/coil car I'd say go Tru-trak. But on a modern 4-link car keep it simple and light with a spool, low maintenance too.Originally posted by ncracer1st View Postwhich one would you use in a crate late model?"If racing were easy, everybody would do it."
#77 Leon "Slick" Sells
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No argument here that you can be very fast with a Tru-Trak or other torque sensing diffs, but it seems impractical to haul 2 diffs around to try and get it working right. Next in my experience when one of these units fails you can really chase your tail before you figure it out, "been there, done that". "To finish first, first you have to finish" and in keeping with that adage I say the spool won't let you down. You may give up some HP from drag, but I think over all you'll be competitive more often than not with the spool, more so than the advantage you may find in a Tru-Trak. With all the complexities of a modern 4 link who needs the headache?Originally posted by dynoman14 View PostThe best way to get a locking diff to work on dirt is to have 2 and swap them out. I have worked with 2 teams that have gotten very fast, especially at big tracks, with them as they allow a big reduction in stagger...(robs HP big time ).Last edited by F22 RAPTOR; 01-06-2013, 01:31 PM."If racing were easy, everybody would do it."
#77 Leon "Slick" Sells
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So you are saying they were swapping out diffs at the track? What class were they running? Remember you are posting in a late model forum?Originally posted by dynoman14 View PostThe best way to get a locking diff to work on dirt is to have 2 and swap them out. I have worked with 2 teams that have gotten very fast, especially at big tracks, with them as they allow a big reduction in stagger...(robs HP big time ).
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Not to mention you would have to replace the pinion gear and that would require a press and heat source and resetting backlash.... About 2-3 hours at best to get it close to right and you are opening up your rear in a dirty atmosphere.Originally posted by racin6mod View Postoops that would be a hard swap to make must be why no reply.
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