Tweet
I have an older mastersbilt maybe 02 or 03 got a 4/4 400 on lf a 6/3 200 lr a 4/4 250 rr and started with a 350 on my 5/12 rf then went to a 425 spring. on entry of the turn the car feels like it scoots up the track like its to soft and wont turn. ive talk to fellow drivers they say they all run 350 and run about the same on the shock not sure what to do my car is fast mid corner and off just can get in.
-
-
btt......................... -
Try a 225 RR and go back to the 350 RF. 425 on the RF is too much and that 250 on the RR is probably planting the RR too hard on entry not letting the car rotate.Comment
-
hows that goin to keep the car from the front setting down real fast and the noise push up the trackComment
-
Were you bottoming out the RF shock with the 350? If not, that isn't the reason your car won't turn. Old school setup logic tells us that a stiffer RF will plant the RF harder and help the car turn. But if the RF is too stiff it will shear the contact patch and cause the tire to slide rather than grip and turn. A softer RF also allows the LR to come UP which puts rear steer into the car on entry which frees you up.
Personally, I think your car should turn with anything from 250-450 on the right front but I would get back to 225 on the RR. This will free up corner entry quite a bit. If you change it and it helps but you still need a freer entry, try raising the bottom right bar up on the frame. The bottom right bar has a tremendous affect on entry on most 4-bar cars.
With that said, where are your bars located and what are you doing with j-bar (length, location at pinion, location at frame)? Where is your ballast located and what are your percentages? There are a million reasons why your car might be tight on entry.Comment
-
I had the same reaction with the 350 as the 425. my left side four bars were the top was 3 holes down from top as same with the bottom, right side both were 1 hole down from top, my j bar is 8 inches up from bottom of frame rail and on the pinion was one hole up from all the way down. my percents were rear 54.6, left almost 55 rf/lr was around 53 or 54 ill have to look at my book. ive always had the issue of the car wanting to slide or push on entry when the track was heavy, with soft springs or stiff springs never found a decent setup for a tackey track but I can set one up when its slickComment
-
Do you have a LR front shock? Whats your 5th Arm Shock number? You can use the LRF shock to hold roll steer in the car on entry.Comment
-
This thread is running on the crate and late model sections and about a half dozen people (including myself) between the two threads have recommended a 225 RR spring. Believe me this will free you up on entry. Have you tried this yet?
Another thing that you might just want to work with is your brake bias. Regardless of how good your car is you will usually need to favor the rear brakes quite a bit or go to 3 wheel when the track is heavy. You could be sliding the RF when braking. Just another thought.Comment
-
I run 3 wheel with it cranked all the way to the rear even when it gets slick, car has always been tight on entry but when its tacky really hurts the carComment
-
225 RR will absorb weight from being on the RR on entry keeping more weight on the LR and help the car pivot, Putting a LRF shock on the car "Traction Shock" can help hold Roll steer in the car on entry. When your on the gas the LR is forward and the car is hiked "Loose Roll Steer" so the traction shock is slowing the cars hikedown and can actually free the car up on entry so you can just play with bite if you are too tight on exit in the heavy. Put the RF back to 350 You could be loading the RF so hard it shears it by overloading it so your not making it looser like tradition says. Put more compression in the RR to resist the weight transfer to the RR on entry which will help the LR pivot the car on decel even more. Trail the RR some. Your on a crate motor you can't afford the car to be bound up you have no HP. Maybe even play with the Birdcage indexing on the Right side to make it roll steer quicker on entry. Get your Left side weight up to the high end of the spectrum like 55.0 or 55.5 and back it down if you end up to looseComment
-
what do you mean trail the rr and could you explain the indexing of the bird cage, and if I switch the rr to a 225 do I need to switch my 200 lr to a 225 or 250Comment
-
Keep your LR the same I always run 200 or 175. Just change your RR spring ASAP to 225. Trailing the RR is making the right side bars longer by a turn or two about 1/8" at a time. If you run 15" lowers on the left and 15 1/4" lowers on the right (just random numbers for example) as your manufacturer baseline take both your right sides and make them two turns longer that sets the RR back farther so it "trails" the LR more this will free your car up (think of how a fork lift steers) the indexing part is moving a 4 link rods on the birdcage side closer to the axle. Most manufacturers start your upper four link bars in the holes furthest away from the axle on your uppers So if you move one closer it will react quick and speed up the rotation of the birdcage so you can play with your uppers and lowers to control how quick you index which controls the rate of rear steer and drive more or less. I'd save that though till your more dialed inComment
-
what about the size of the springs ive been running 12 inch on front a 12 on rr and a 14 on lr ive seen cars that look like they are running a 8 or 10 inch on lr and 10s on the frontComment
-
Not a concern really!Comment
-
I run 12's all the way around maybe a 10 on the LF or a different size on the RF in some setups but stay away from a setup that as the LR preloaded before its installed I just run a 12" with a takeup spring on the LR a tall LR spring can bow in some of the softer ratesComment
Comment