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Back by popular request is our procedure for storing your engine through the winter----I have been simply copy and pasteing it for the last few years ----this year I am going to make a few additions at the bottom but I will leave the original as posted.
Race-1
Recommendations On How To Put Your Engine To
Bed For The Winter
First and foremost---if you are not storing your engine/car in a garage that is heated 100% of the time you need to get all the water out or install antifreeze in the system NOW.
We recommend putting at least a gallon of antifreeze in anyway.
Next
Disconnect the feed line to your fuel pump and run a hose from the pickup side of the pump into a fuel jug with quality gasoline (AV gas or 93 octane pump gas) it is also recommended to mix 2 stroke oil into this gas--(if pump gas is used use a heavier mix of 2 stroke oil)
Placing the fuel jug into a safe location away from headers
Then warm the engine up to operating temperature
After the engine is warm begin drizzling straight 30 wt. motor oil down the carb at a high idle (1300 to 1500)
Once the garage becomes filled with smoke increase the stream of oil and choke the engine out with oil.
Next take several oil soaked rags and stuff them into the ends of the headers.
If you want added security remove the rocker arms so all the valve springs will be relaxed
If you used a mixture of two stroke gasoline for your fogging process and made sure the secondary side of the carb was also flowing fuel during fogging then there is no need to do any further carburetor bedding but some like to remove the carb drain and fill with wd40.
When wakening up the engine remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over a time or two to release any excess oil then prime the oil system reinstall the same plugs to initially fire the engine
You will need to change spark plugs after you warm it up and clear the winter oil away
This process does not take long and will help to insure your engine will wake up the same way it went to bed
Any questions please call or e mail through our web site
Brad
330-540-RACE
2015 additional suggestions to bedding down procedure
** a great fuel additive to use for bedding is Joe Gibbs (Driven) carb defender----we recommend to double the mixture for winter bedding but it is a fabulous product for use during the race season as well (this would replace the 2 stroke oil)-----------the product is actually advertised for E-85 users but works great with all fuels especially CHP
** cars using a return style regulator must route the return line into the remote fuel jug/tank and make sure that it is flowing fuel so that the regulator will have a good winter nap as well
**drain the fuel cell---------if you are going to use the fuel that's in the fuel cell it is best stored in steel , sealed cans and keep them off the concrete and in the best atmosphere possible
** remove the rockers---we are crate engine builders and in the past have not seen the need to remove the rockers during storage like you would in a super or open engine ----that opinion has changed------I will try to shorten this procedure for some in another post with information of engine position and what rockers to remove (stay tuned)
**take the battery out of the tach----------------
the 9 volt battery that is in most tachs will leak after time and destroy your expensive tach
by a bulk pack in the spring and replace your smoke detector batteries as well
Brad
Race-1
Recommendations On How To Put Your Engine To
Bed For The Winter
First and foremost---if you are not storing your engine/car in a garage that is heated 100% of the time you need to get all the water out or install antifreeze in the system NOW.
We recommend putting at least a gallon of antifreeze in anyway.
Next
Disconnect the feed line to your fuel pump and run a hose from the pickup side of the pump into a fuel jug with quality gasoline (AV gas or 93 octane pump gas) it is also recommended to mix 2 stroke oil into this gas--(if pump gas is used use a heavier mix of 2 stroke oil)
Placing the fuel jug into a safe location away from headers
Then warm the engine up to operating temperature
After the engine is warm begin drizzling straight 30 wt. motor oil down the carb at a high idle (1300 to 1500)
Once the garage becomes filled with smoke increase the stream of oil and choke the engine out with oil.
Next take several oil soaked rags and stuff them into the ends of the headers.
If you want added security remove the rocker arms so all the valve springs will be relaxed
If you used a mixture of two stroke gasoline for your fogging process and made sure the secondary side of the carb was also flowing fuel during fogging then there is no need to do any further carburetor bedding but some like to remove the carb drain and fill with wd40.
When wakening up the engine remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over a time or two to release any excess oil then prime the oil system reinstall the same plugs to initially fire the engine
You will need to change spark plugs after you warm it up and clear the winter oil away
This process does not take long and will help to insure your engine will wake up the same way it went to bed
Any questions please call or e mail through our web site
Brad
330-540-RACE
2015 additional suggestions to bedding down procedure
** a great fuel additive to use for bedding is Joe Gibbs (Driven) carb defender----we recommend to double the mixture for winter bedding but it is a fabulous product for use during the race season as well (this would replace the 2 stroke oil)-----------the product is actually advertised for E-85 users but works great with all fuels especially CHP
** cars using a return style regulator must route the return line into the remote fuel jug/tank and make sure that it is flowing fuel so that the regulator will have a good winter nap as well
**drain the fuel cell---------if you are going to use the fuel that's in the fuel cell it is best stored in steel , sealed cans and keep them off the concrete and in the best atmosphere possible
** remove the rockers---we are crate engine builders and in the past have not seen the need to remove the rockers during storage like you would in a super or open engine ----that opinion has changed------I will try to shorten this procedure for some in another post with information of engine position and what rockers to remove (stay tuned)
**take the battery out of the tach----------------
the 9 volt battery that is in most tachs will leak after time and destroy your expensive tach
by a bulk pack in the spring and replace your smoke detector batteries as well
Brad
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