Crate set-up difference from SLM?

[Krooser]

Had a BS session this week with a couple locals and the subject of chassis set-up came up... especially if you are running an older non-raised rail MB, Rayburn or ????

One of the guys is new to the LM world and is looking at an older GRT with a glorified IMCA 604 crate. No crate racing around here so he's likely to test the WISSOTA or WDLMA world. I'd help him but he wouldn't be able to make the Hornet feature with my advice!

So... if a guy's running twin tube shocks, four bar, 400 HP, etc. would you suggest starting with the MFG's original set-ups and go from there? Or just place a call to "Black Sunshine" and pick his noggin?

[GRT62]

Start close to the baseline just get the car as free as you can it still be drivable. The crate motors are all about staying wound up if he has to get out of the gas anywhere from middle to exit, he will drop like a rock.

[Stede Bonnet]

^^^^^^^^^^What he said.^^^^^^^^^^^^

I'd say the car is less the issue, but more so the motor. That car is plenty capable though.

[CCHIEF]

Crate's are all about maximizing corner speed, maximize that and your do very well. Crate cars don't enter or accelerate off the corner as fast as a super, so they need to carry more speed thru the corner. Concentrate on that to do well in crate racing.(keep car free but not loose, tight is slow, fast is free!) How, that's a user/track/tire/chassis specific discussion.

[Basecircle]

It fits this topic pretty close, so I didn't want to start a new topic. A similar question:With a new (to late models) driver, what is more comfortable to drive/learn on; the newer stacked springs/bumpstops/etc, or old school base/by the book set-ups? Assume both are set up properly and tested by an experienced driver.

[GRT62]

Start on conventional spring setups. A bump stop not tuned correctly can cause an ill handling car in a hurry.