Get ur lr bite down to any where between 80 to 120lbs. What is ur load numbers on ur rf with the 275 3in an 4in? Jbar needs to be 8.75 on frame and level with pinion. Right side bars in 3rd hole left side top in middle and 5th on the bottom. Might want to ho to 450 lf too. How is track condition smooth and tacky or rough and tacky. This should get u pretty neutraul in any condition
Too Tigh On Entry wont rotate
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Kind of makes since. Take rounds out of RR to decrease static load. Add rubbers to increase dynamic load. This would free entry and tighten middle (take a set) and then the lower RR bar angles due to ride height change should in theory make it drive harder off the LR getting off the corner.Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostAsk the XR1 guys who's RR corner keeps getting lower as the night goes on and they keep carrying spring rubbers to the rr.
We just keep coming up with more and more reasons to buy a spring smasher, don't we? I've been putting it off too long. Can't get good info from anybody (even those willing to help) on RF bump stops without giving them all these load numbers first and not just on RF.
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Yeah. I got along real good for a long time with no smasher. (Just doing the math myself.) Actually got messed up this year the first time I tried to use other people's numbers and a smasher. But, I think I need one at this point.Originally posted by Matt49 View PostKind of makes since. Take rounds out of RR to decrease static load. Add rubbers to increase dynamic load. This would free entry and tighten middle (take a set) and then the lower RR bar angles due to ride height change should in theory make it drive harder off the LR getting off the corner.
We just keep coming up with more and more reasons to buy a spring smasher, don't we? I've been putting it off too long. Can't get good info from anybody (even those willing to help) on RF bump stops without giving them all these load numbers first and not just on RF.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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saw a track record set with less than 1 inch of stagger this year , with the rear steer thats achieved now days , less is needed to turn , plus strait away speed is usually gained.....by the way , there was a thread on here a while back about running two 29s on rear , if im not mistaken , thats what he was on....Originally posted by 7uptruckracer View PostI don't personally know anyone on XR1 who are changing things there anymore, the other Rockets definitely though. I dunno what the difference is on why one and not the other. My friends running and winning on XR1 still aren't chanfing anything bc Rocket told them not too lol. Now that being said the only change I was told was recommended was being told to take rounds out the RR as an adjustment. That and the stagger. Which Maybe another topic for discussion the low stagger makes alot more sense for driving a car straight ahead then the 4" we have always just stuck with
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that does make good since , and kinda simplifies things some......Originally posted by Matt49 View PostKind of makes since. Take rounds out of RR to decrease static load. Add rubbers to increase dynamic load. This would free entry and tighten middle (take a set) and then the lower RR bar angles due to ride height change should in theory make it drive harder off the LR getting off the corner.
We just keep coming up with more and more reasons to buy a spring smasher, don't we? I've been putting it off too long. Can't get good info from anybody (even those willing to help) on RF bump stops without giving them all these load numbers first and not just on RF.
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Like MB said you can do the math and get most of the info you need, it's just slower. Now setting or adjusting to pin to pin measurements without one takes a lot more steps and is way way slower then just using a cruncher. Before we had them, even with bump stops if you have the graphs on them I could take someones 375 spring off that was traveling max of 4.125" and change it to say a 250 with a bump stop and calculate it with math and throw it on the car and usually get within a 1/8" of travel most times.Originally posted by Matt49 View PostWe just keep coming up with more and more reasons to buy a spring smasher, don't we? I've been putting it off too long. Can't get good info from anybody (even those willing to help) on RF bump stops without giving them all these load numbers first and not just on RF.
The cruncher makes life a lot faster and easier but can be done without one. It saves a lot of trips back and forth to the car (depending on what your doing) and a lot more accurate.
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So my socket on the jack under the rearend is antiquated now!Originally posted by billetbirdcage View PostLike MB said you can do the math and get most of the info you need, it's just slower. Now setting or adjusting to pin to pin measurements without one takes a lot more steps and is way way slower then just using a cruncher. Before we had them, even with bump stops if you have the graphs on them I could take someones 375 spring off that was traveling max of 4.125" and change it to say a 250 with a bump stop and calculate it with math and throw it on the car and usually get within a 1/8" of travel most times.
The cruncher makes life a lot faster and easier but can be done without one. It saves a lot of trips back and forth to the car (depending on what your doing) and a lot more accurate.
Turn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!
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Agree on the less stagger for sure with the amount of rear steer we have. You really only need enough stagger to keep the tires from "scrubbing" too much in the turns. But any amount of scrubbing you eliminate in the corners gets picked back up on the straights.Originally posted by fastford View Postsaw a track record set with less than 1 inch of stagger this year , with the rear steer thats achieved now days , less is needed to turn , plus strait away speed is usually gained.....by the way , there was a thread on here a while back about running two 29s on rear , if im not mistaken , thats what he was on....
I think less that traditionally accepted stagger also puts optimal camber in the rear tires. Just look at the tire wear pattern that you get when running 4 inches or more of stagger. That can't be good or at least I see room for improvement.
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