'03 Mastersbilt build suggestions.

[Krooser]

Another question... on a Smackdown what spindles to use and would i have to modify the mounts to make another spindle work? I have Smackdown and S7 spindles right now...

812-793-0827 is Mastersbilt's new phone number... also heard Tader moved to a new shop.

As always thanks.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I would use the S7 Krooser.

[Matt49]

Ditto on the S7 spindles for that car. There is no new shop. I was at the one and only MasterSbilt shop today and Tader was there.

[Krooser]

Ditto on the S7 spindles for that car. There is no new shop. I was at the one and only MasterSbilt shop today and Tader was there.

Guess you can't believe all you read on FB...but the new phone is legit.

Got a new pair of S7 spindles for $100.00... even I can afford that. How do they different from Smackdown?

[Krooser]

Ditto on the S7 spindles for that car. There is no new shop. I was at the one and only MasterSbilt shop today and Tader was there.

Guess you can't believe all you read on FB...but the new phone is legit.

Got a new pair of S7 spindles for $100.00... even I can afford that. How do they different from Smackdown?

[Matt49]

Guess you can't believe all you read on FB...but the new phone is legit.

Got a new pair of S7 spindles for $100.00... even I can afford that. How do they different from Smackdown?

I don't believe anything I read on Facebook. :-)
The S7 has more KPI. The ride heights also go to 3-1/2" on both sides if I'm remembering correctly.
Left side control arm lengths need to be 10-1/2 and 16-5/8 (same as original smack). Right side should be 8-1/4 and 18-5/8.
The difference that we noticed (any it is echoed by many that started on the old smack stuff and switched to S7) is that the car is far more responsive to steering input from the center off. With the old smack spindles you kind of had to nail entry just right or you would have your hands full getting exit straight often having to use the pedals. The S7 stuff, not so much. It steers better getting off the corner. Not as good as a complete Gen-X front end but as good as the smack can get I think.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I don't believe anything I read on Facebook. :-)
The S7 has more KPI. The ride heights also go to 3-1/2" on both sides if I'm remembering correctly.
Left side control arm lengths need to be 10-1/2 and 16-5/8 (same as original smack). Right side should be 8-1/4 and 18-5/8.
The difference that we noticed (any it is echoed by many that started on the old smack stuff and switched to S7) is that the car is far more responsive to steering input from the center off. With the old smack spindles you kind of had to nail entry just right or you would have your hands full getting exit straight often having to use the pedals. The S7 stuff, not so much. It steers better getting off the corner. Not as good as a complete Gen-X front end but as good as the smack can get I think.

We ran a 20" lower on the s7 setup, spaced the upper out to compensate, and moved the upper pickup points down 1". This was the 33B car Whitney drove. It drove pretty dang good on most conditions. The only hole was momentum tracks when they were dirty. I think maybe it was a caster gain issue.

[Krooser]

Sounds good to me ...

[Krooser]

What about steering racks? I havent heard from the PO about the parts he has to sell so now im looking at a Woodward rack another forum member has for sale... 4.0 ratio i believe. I havent used a Woodward since the 80's... they look nice but the parts are pricey but arent they all....

[fastford]

You can use about any rack if its the correct width , but sure would be nice to find one with slotted ends when working with bump steer ,

[billetbirdcage]

What about steering racks? I havent heard from the PO about the parts he has to sell so now im looking at a Woodward rack another forum member has for sale... 4.0 ratio i believe. I havent used a Woodward since the 80's... they look nice but the parts are pricey but arent they all....

This is very general (if you can't get info on what is supposed to be on car)

The rack will typically be 1/2 to 3/4" longer (between tie rods) then the distance between the lower control arm mounting holes. Example if the lower holes are 18" apart, then a 18.25 to 18.75" length rack is generally used.

Rack ratio: sort of a personal preference, but typically the shorter the steering arms are you probably want a slower rack and vice versa. Ratio's have gotten a lot faster over the years and 4.0ish or faster is more the normal, but if you have long steering arms (around 5" verses 4.5") you might go up a little to a 4.4 to get similar speed as the short arm spindles.

For sure try to get a rack with the vertical slots, Just be aware there are different ends, some are more around the top of the shaft, some more at middle and some that are more below the shaft. Which one you need can vary depending on car. Now granted a lot of older cars don't need the slots because the tie rods are meant to be above the shaft so the old non clevis racks work fine for the most part.

[Krooser]

The rack I'm looking at is a 3.66... I think I can retrofit the slotted ends. Definitely a plus for adjusting bump steer. Not sure on the servo spec. I'd really like a faster rack ratio... the one on my '95 is 3.3 something. I could replace the pinion on the Woodward if it's new enough... they don't service anything older than 10 years or so. Different model. I like bigger steering wheels if I can get my fat gut out of the way.

[thanhhang1996zi]

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[Krooser]

Too Can Chew to you too.

[fastford]

I guess the mods dont even look at the tech section any more......