Starting

[LIS20]

Had a problem saturday night - spun in future - could not get car to start either by starter button or by pushing -- car was pushed back to trailer and started right up - using optima red-top battery - engine is an aluminum 441 with about 750 hp and 13:1 compression -- i will be checking all connections, switches and battery - starter is new and was been checked before installation -- any ideas as to what might be going on -- thanks in advance.

[Kromulous]

Solenoid? We got one that only works when it feels like it seems.

External Ford type, mounted away from the Starter.

[Basecircle]

If it wouldn’t start with a push either, that rules out any starter/solenoid/wiring issues on that end. I’d be looking at replacing your ignition switch first. It’s the cheapest and most likely part to fail and cause a no start I’d say. Impossible to diagnose properly if you can’t get it to act up again unfortunately. Maybe wiggle some connections there and at the plug on the distributor to see if you can get it to quit first?

[a25rjr]

Check the battery. I used to be a big fan of the red optimas but 2 have suddenly shorted themselves, in 2 diff vehicles out for no reason. Plus, their warranty isn't as good anymore!

[Matt49]

Could be a vapor lock situation due to fuel not flowing near hot exhaust. Are your fuel lines running anywhere near your headers? I've also seen this problem amplified by improperly installed pressure regulators (regulator between the pump and the fuel log is NOT the correct way to install it).

[Burke1118]

regulator between the pump and the fuel log is NOT the correct way to install it

Matt, care to expound upon this? That is exactly how mine is installed... lol

[Krooser]

Matt, care to expound upon this? That is exactly how mine is installed... lol

Run it from the backside of the fuel log on the return line to the cell.

[Matt49]

Burke1118, common mistake and we did this also.
First of all, you should really be running a regulator with a return/bypass. Deadhead regulators are hard on fuel pumps and can cause the fuel to move very slowly between the pump and fuel log. Usually this fuel line is near headers and can get warm. Warm fuel is bad for the motor in general.
The setup should be pump to the front of the fuel log and then have the regulator installed at the back of the fuel log with the return line running back to the tank. At first glance, this may not make sense because the regulator is not in the "flow" of the fuel but this is exactly what you want. The pressure will be the same anywhere past the pump (there is nothing restricting it other than the needle valves in the carm) so it doesn't matter where you are measuring or regulating pressure as long as it is somewhere between the pump and the carb. By putting it at the back of the log, you remove the regulator from limiting flow and it only limits pressure by releasing excess pressure into the return line. This is exactly what you want. The also keeps fuel moving through the system as quickly as possible and limits the amount of heat it picks up while under the hood.
Page 2 of this PDF diagrams it nicely in case my description is crap:

http://www.kse-racing.com/TechDocs/KSC2005%20Installation.pdf

[7uptruckracer]

How would you do this on a 2 barrell? I've had an issue might be pump GPH or heat soak. We have a 10 lap scuff session then we sit on pit road and its only done it on my out laps in qual and first qual lap but it really messes my times up

Burke1118, common mistake and we did this also.
First of all, you should really be running a regulator with a return/bypass. Deadhead regulators are hard on fuel pumps and can cause the fuel to move very slowly between the pump and fuel log. Usually this fuel line is near headers and can get warm. Warm fuel is bad for the motor in general.
The setup should be pump to the front of the fuel log and then have the regulator installed at the back of the fuel log with the return line running back to the tank. At first glance, this may not make sense because the regulator is not in the "flow" of the fuel but this is exactly what you want. The pressure will be the same anywhere past the pump (there is nothing restricting it other than the needle valves in the carm) so it doesn't matter where you are measuring or regulating pressure as long as it is somewhere between the pump and the carb. By putting it at the back of the log, you remove the regulator from limiting flow and it only limits pressure by releasing excess pressure into the return line. This is exactly what you want. The also keeps fuel moving through the system as quickly as possible and limits the amount of heat it picks up while under the hood.
Page 2 of this PDF diagrams it nicely in case my description is crap:
http://www.kse-racing.com/TechDocs/K...stallation.pdf

[Burke1118]

Burke1118, common mistake and we did this also.First of all, you should really be running a regulator with a return/bypass. Deadhead regulators are hard on fuel pumps and can cause the fuel to move very slowly between the pump and fuel log. Usually this fuel line is near headers and can get warm. Warm fuel is bad for the motor in general. The setup should be pump to the front of the fuel log and then have the regulator installed at the back of the fuel log with the return line running back to the tank. At first glance, this may not make sense because the regulator is not in the "flow" of the fuel but this is exactly what you want. The pressure will be the same anywhere past the pump (there is nothing restricting it other than the needle valves in the carm) so it doesn't matter where you are measuring or regulating pressure as long as it is somewhere between the pump and the carb. By putting it at the back of the log, you remove the regulator from limiting flow and it only limits pressure by releasing excess pressure into the return line. This is exactly what you want. The also keeps fuel moving through the system as quickly as possible and limits the amount of heat it picks up while under the hood.Page 2 of this PDF diagrams it nicely in case my description is crap:http://www.kse-racing.com/TechDocs/K...stallation.pdf

Learn something new every day. Thanks Matt, definitely gonna have to make this upgrade. Makes perfect sense

[Matt49]

How would you do this on a 2 barrell? I've had an issue might be pump GPH or heat soak. We have a 10 lap scuff session then we sit on pit road and its only done it on my out laps in qual and first qual lap but it really messes my times up

You would have to put a T in the plumbing between the pump and carb. Might take some light fabrication to get things mounted properly but it should do the trick.

[billetbirdcage]

You would have to put a T in the plumbing between the pump and carb. Might take some light fabrication to get things mounted properly but it should do the trick.

I'll add this as it may not been clear: Put T as close to the carb as possible so fuel flows all the time (returns to tank) and keeps the fuel and line cool. The closer to the carb the better, if that makes sense.

[Jking24]

Another thing that can make a big difference and is quick and simple is heat shielding around the supply lines from the mid plate to the pump and especially the line running up from the pump to the carb. Assuming it's a block mounted pump

[CCHIEF]

Had a problem saturday night - spun in future - could not get car to start either by starter button or by pushing -- car was pushed back to trailer and started right up - using optima red-top battery - engine is an aluminum 441 with about 750 hp and 13:1 compression -- i will be checking all connections, switches and battery - starter is new and was been checked before installation -- any ideas as to what might be going on -- thanks in advance.

So it would crank but not start? If so, you likely dumped fuel when you spun, next time try holding the gas to the floor... to clear the flooded engine. No crank, different diagnosis.

[Krooser]

Matt49 gave an excellent explanation as to how the system should be run. -8 return line will be fine.

Regarding electrics... Lots of cheap off shore ign. switches, on/off switches, etc. floating around. Check your grounds often.