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my real question is why would you want progressive or digressive left rears,,, i understand pro uses the bottom spring to set ride height, and top coilover is setting the extension load.... while digressive it is opposite. but still can arrive at same point. so what is the difference?? and how do you know the extension load you need to be at for a condition
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billet , do you think the load applied to the rubber on a chain is equal , load wise , to the rear hitting the rubber on my under slung ? just wandering because this might be where something could be learned with a spring smasher and some rubber......Comment
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It would depend how much contact area you have on each. For instance you the rubber piece was 2.5†with a 2.5†steel washer trying to compress it the rate would be much stiffer and if a rib from you side bell was trying to crush the same
Piece of rubber. But if you had the same
Surface area it would be the same either wayComment
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Load is load, so if you got a similar rate and travel/time then yes on a chain or under the rear end would be the same. However like Huck said, it would need to be tested and adjusted to get them actually the same if you knew one that worked perfect.Originally posted by fastford View Post
To be clear, I wasn't saying one is better then the other but they are different and you can get some, a lot, or almost no noticeable change felt on the cars.
Just because I tried explaining something, doesn't mean I actually know what is best. (grins and shrugs)Last edited by billetbirdcage; 11-27-2018, 05:44 AM.Comment
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Thanks for the great response billet! Given the fact that theres a ton of options for limiters available today, how would you go about picking one and then what sort of tendencies would you expect it to exhibit on the track when it's tuned properly? In other words if you watch a video of the limiter on the car what would you want to see?Originally posted by billetbirdcage View PostComment
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Recently been looking into nitrogen type limiters, it seems they have the ability to add in quite a bit more progressive rate than rubber, or some sort of poly / foam type pucks. Anyone running the nitrogen types?
I guess the next question is, what kind of rate are we wanting on the limiting device?
Just say no...Comment
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i saw a home made chain limiter that he used a cone style bump stop , think it was yellow , that worked well and was compact . this is what i was gone try but because we run under slung frame , i went that way.....Comment
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Running the LR stack without the lockout is kinda useless. Setting how much wheel load the lower spring holds at ride height is make or break the whole dealComment
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How the car rides through the pits is irrelevant hence the current deck height and nose height rules. It's all about dynamic loadsOriginally posted by King1 View PostComment
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I don't race at ride height. If you want to put a stop on there or something, have at it.Originally posted by King1 View PostModern Day Spec Wedge RacingComment
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Might want to be a little more open minded to that lower spring load at ride height. Im all about dynamic wheel loads too, but that lockout location is 2/3 of the LR setup. You're only using the bottom spring until the LR drops out enough to come off the lockout and both springs are utilized.
But whatever, not here to argue about deck height, just trying to help the guy out.
Ask Mccreadie about how important that lower spring load is. If it wasnt then people wouldnt spend the money on a lockout nut.Comment
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You do realize that the rate the LR see's even with a single linear spring isn't linear? While it can be, typically it isn't on most cars.Originally posted by sidewinder69 View PostComment
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Forgot last night to say this:Originally posted by fastford View Post
Keep in mind you can get the bottom deal to be just like a chain but there are some inherient issues you have to over come.
1. Some cars will hit the undersling in the bell area, where the rear end meets the tube. You can be hitting with the axle tube but if you adjust the J-bar with more rake so the rear end pulls left more and then hits with the bell lessening the over all drop.
2. If it hits with one of the bolts that holds the tube in the bell, that will effect the rate of the rubber/cushion and change how it cushions and again possibly the over all travel.
3. If you adjust the bars and change steer, you may have more or less contact with the rubber and again change things like rate or overall travel. This is due to the rear end hitting farther forward or backwards on the undersling, so the cushion may need to be long front to back to hit full material all the time.
4. Just a lot more to consider on the undersling and how it contacts the rear end. Where the chain doesn't have this issues to pay attention too.
When you really look at it, the chain is less work and most likely better as you don't have to engineer it to death to make it consistent.Last edited by billetbirdcage; 11-27-2018, 05:49 PM.Comment
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If you want my honest opinion on different limiters:Originally posted by Kromulous View Post
I don't really think there is a nickles difference in them, just how much lighter your wallet is.
Now I will say if you can run one that has valving to it (illegal by most sanction bodies), well I do think there is a benefit to those. Like I described earlier, the travel over time deal with different materials can be controlled/altered by having a limiter with valving, so. . . . .Last edited by billetbirdcage; 11-27-2018, 05:50 PM.Comment
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So this all leads to something else, not talked about and maybe people don't know about them.
Position sensitive shocks
The LR valving on a std shock is linear on valving no matter where it's at on it's travel, but having a position sensitive shock allows me to control/change the valving at the point of travel it's on the limiter thus altering it or adding/subtracting valving and still meet or bypass the rules on the dampened limiter.
More things to say. . . . . hmmm.
OK, I'm done for the day (grins)Comment
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