LR setup

[LM14]

Think about what way your birdcage rotates on the LR corner during hike up. The back of the cage goes up towards the frame. Try a straight 4 or 35 shock on the back and a 62 or 82 shock in front. You are slowing hike with the shock being stiff on compression with the rotation of the birdcage. Soft compression on the back and soft rebound on the front doesn't limit birdcage rotation.

I would also consider going to a 200# LR spring. It will hike up faster with a softer spring. With the steel motor, go to a 425-450# RF spring and a 35 shock.

I think Shaw bases their setup % on a 200# driver. Their setup is without the driver in the car. Since you are bigger than that, put 95# of lead in the car. Some in the seat (represents your torso) and some just in front on the floor pan (represents your legs). Set your ride heights this way also. Get your percentages corrent to their baseline numbers that way and then remove the lead and write them down without the lead and that's your new baseline to compensate for your size.

You should also try to get the angle in the j-bar to 5-7" range with the bar at center of pinion height. That's a crutch you shouldn't need if everything else is right.

SPark

[racin29]

yes shaw's basic setup sheet weight wise is based off a 200 driver like grt but their ride heights are with you in the car if you set them without you your left side will be low, again making the car harder to turn, with driver in car you want your ls % in the 54.4 54.9 and rear 56 56.5 your bite is also high bring it down to 85 car will get in better and turn

[rubbinsracin]

hmmm never thought of setting the ride heights with me in the car. we usually set heights and set the car up close to where we think it needs to be then we put me in it and then fine tune it to where we need to be numbers wise and never thought about ride heights after my fat a$$ gets in the car lol

The car ran pretty well this week. still getting used to getting back on the gas heavy and letting the rear steer do the driving for me through the corner instead of try to pedal it through. i think i will try to dial down the wedge some next week, see if that makes it a little easier to learn. we have had a couple of specials lately where they track is used up come our feature so we have tried dialing up the static wedge for drive off.

im thinking about going to a 225 LR and a 200 RR with about 80ish lbs wedge and still leave the 375 spring up front because i like the feeling it gives going into the corner. just need to teach myself how to get back into it and really "turn right, to go left" with this 4 bar.

[LM14]

As it gets slicker try a lighter LR spring.

SPark

[4bangerhotrod]

you should really think about raising your whole LS up about a 1/2-1in and as the track slicks off add 3-4 turns to the LR before the feature this helps get the car started on the RF and adds a little bit of wedge in the car. it def helps the car turn and raisin the ride heights will help alot more than hurt with your weight you probably need all the help you can get, it helps the car get started rolling over and helps gain sidebite quicker. even alot of the chassis builders house cars raise the LS ride heights if that tells you anything

[rubbinsracin]

I think were going to take the 250 out of the LR and put a 225 in it. and go with about 80-90 lbs wedge. see how that makes the car feel. were trying to make small adjustments so as i get better i can become more comfortable with them. i know i can drive the car hard as it sits today, but i want to make small adjustments to really dial it in.

[racin29]

hey i want you to check something some time put a jack under the leftside right infront of the lr tire and jack the car up till the lr is just barely touching the ground and then measure from the bottom of the outside top frame bar down to the top of the birdcage just outside the upper 4bar plate basic starting point for hike is 18" if you not there get it there