Originally posted by Kromulous
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Rear oversteer
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Last season myself and my teamate both tried low stagger setups all year (less than 1" most of the time). We fought tight cars that would not turn in properly all year. We run only on small 3/8 paperclip tracks, stop and go. The more stagger we added near the end of the year the better the cars were (1 3/4" was the most we ran). Is it possible that low stagger will not work on this type of track? Lots of bar changes according to the chassis builder to try to get it to turn as well to no avail.
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Krom, I thought you was getting out and went mod racing? Not the case?Originally posted by Kromulous View Post
We just ran our new car and i started with 1" roll out, and it turned better then any car we have had, and i couldn't believe it really, i am old and stuck in the past LOL but with these new load numbers and droop loads its a whole new game i guess.
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It has a lot to do with driving style, IMO more then track style. Honestly a guy could make a really good argument that a paperclip/stop and go track would be the track that would like the least amount of stagger over other tracks.Originally posted by bcarrot28 View PostLast season myself and my teamate both tried low stagger setups all year (less than 1" most of the time). We fought tight cars that would not turn in properly all year. We run only on small 3/8 paperclip tracks, stop and go. The more stagger we added near the end of the year the better the cars were (1 3/4" was the most we ran). Is it possible that low stagger will not work on this type of track? Lots of bar changes according to the chassis builder to try to get it to turn as well to no avail.
I would guess you drive straighter then average or less not really crossed up, thus don't prefer small stagger ranges.
Never been a fan of the really low stagger's myself but doesn't mean it's right or wrong, do what works for you.
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That is true Billet, but i still like to talk SLMs if you all dont mind. Plus i still help here and there on other cars.
Also from what i am seeing so far, with these new Mods the set ups are virtually the same. Car weighs more, but the loads and stuff are close. We are running a zero index LR deal, heavy cage, and axle, with 300 lbs droop load currently.
I wanted to hang on another year in the Supers, but not in the cards but i am still buying lotto tickets LOL !
Just say no...
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Originally posted by Kromulous View PostThat is true Billet, but i still like to talk SLMs if you all dont mind. Plus i still help here and there on other cars.
Also from what i am seeing so far, with these new Mods the set ups are virtually the same. Car weighs more, but the loads and stuff are close. We are running a zero index LR deal, heavy cage, and axle, with 300 lbs droop load currently.
I wanted to hang on another year in the Supers, but not in the cards but i am still buying lotto tickets LOL !
No LM, no man card
Sorry Joking but I had too
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CP Furney wrote a book on Hoosier tires many years ago. He stated you had to adjust stagger due to the track conditions causing more or less squish in the right side tires!Originally posted by Jking24 View PostAgreed with regards to cj theirs alot of comparisons he makes that aren't apples to apples. In regards to the stagger theirs more Than one way to skin a cat. You can put a much stagger as you want in within reason of course and i can still make your stuff dumptruck tight. I new a very successful racer years ago that swore you only adjust stagger for the size and shape of the race track. He says the shadow and banking of the corner isn't changing why does the stagger need to. You could argue this from several angles but bottom line is they won alot of races in their time running the same stagger weather it was hammer down or dryslick and this was at a track that can be either way depending on prep that week
He was ahead of the times in his book. He had stagger tables based on turn radius's and rear track width.
fwiw......he was an engineer in the aluminum industry and had many patents working for Alcoa!
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LOL @ Billet, its going to be different.
Roll out, as i call it, measuring around the tire with a tape. Usually a SLM tire is anywhere from 95 to 89 ish maybe.
A friend of mine bought one of them gauges (across the tire) nice bearing one that converts it to circumference, its kinda nice, but i just use a tape, kinda feel lost if i don't have one in my pocket at the track.
Most people, 99% prob use roll out, I just wanted to make sure that is how they measure it too.
Just say no...
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