99 mastersbilt set-up

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  • oakshade_racer
    Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 31

    #1

    99 mastersbilt set-up

    ok ill try this again and see if it goes thru. I have a 99 mastersbilt chassis that i am in the process of putting together as a beginer late model. i have no idea on what or how this car should be set-up so iam wondering if any of you guys have any information on the car and what it is supposed to have for set-up shocks , springs weight %, tires, psi. and basicly any information that made this car work back in its day. I beleive it is a " narrow car" but iam not 100% on how to indetify. ive read on one forum that these cars like to carry the left front but were fast if you got that problem under control. iam all new to late modle set-ups also. my home track is oakshade, 3/8 medium banking wide turns, but i actually am wanting to race this car at eldroa. crazy for a rookie i know, but i ran a stock there a few yrs ago and am wanting to return a lil faster. so any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • MasterSbilt_Racer
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 14324

    #2
    A narrow car can be setup close to a Smackdown. This is especially true if you can get a copy of an older Smackdown setup book from around 2004 or so. Basic setup for most places:

    500 450
    250 225

    55% left, 55% rear, 100# lr j bar near pinion height and 8" up from bottom of frame rail

    lr top in top, rr top one down, lr bottom second up, rr bottom link level

    Have fun.
    Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

    Comment

    • MasterSbilt_Racer
      Senior Member
      • May 2007
      • 14324

      #3
      If a narrow,

      .................. LF.....................RF
      Caster......... +2 ...................+4
      Camber ........+2 ................... -5
      Ride Height...3-3/4................3-3/4
      Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

      Comment

      • bumpdrafter
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 606

        #4
        Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
        A narrow car can be setup close to a Smackdown. This is especially true if you can get a copy of an older Smackdown setup book from around 2004 or so. Basic setup for most places:

        500 450
        250 225

        55% left, 55% rear, 100# lr j bar near pinion height and 8" up from bottom of frame rail

        lr top in top, rr top one down, lr bottom second up, rr bottom link level

        Have fun.
        oakoakshade_racer
        I've got set up books for 2002 Smack B and 2002 "5010" I downloaded from MasterS website some years ago. Can send email copies if you send me a pm with your addy. MasterSbilt_Racer knows his stuff with these older cars. He has helped me alot with my narrow car.

        Copied this page:
        SHOCK BEHIND LR – INTERMEDIATE
        Shocks Springs
        LF MB-1 RF MB-1 LF 500 RF 450
        LR MB-2 RR MB-2 LR 250 RR 200

        *SHOCK AND SPRING BEHIND. DUMMY SHOCK IN FRONT W/1 ½” SHOCK EXTENSION.
        5th coil- #350 spring on 73 shock @ 35”
        6th coil- #350 spring

        Percentages …note set all percentages and ride heights with driver in car.
        54.5% left side
        55% rear

        120# left rear bite

        Ride Heights
        LF 3 5/8- 3 3/4 RF 3 5/8-3 3/4
        LR depends on wedge approx. 7 3/8-7 5/8
        RR 7 1/8

        Caster/Camber
        LF RF
        Caster +2 Caster +4
        Camber +2 Camber -4

        3/8” toe out

        Stagger 1” Front 4” Rear
        Wheel Offset 5”- All 4 Corners
        Air Pressures LF 8# RF 10# LR 6# RR 9#

        Panhard bar 8” on frame, middle hole on pinion
        *Measure from bottom of frame rail to center of bracket.

        4 link rods: square
        17 ½ top rods
        15 ½ bottom rods
        Rear end location 13” from steel 90/10 plate to inside of LR frame rail over LR axle tube.

        Top rods 1 hole down from top.
        Right bottom rod in top hole.
        Left bottom rod in middle hole.

        MasterSbilt Race Car Chassis, Inc.
        US Highway 31 South
        Crothersville, IN 47229
        812.793.3666
        Last edited by bumpdrafter; 11-19-2010, 07:25 PM.

        Comment

        • oakshade_racer
          Member
          • Jul 2009
          • 31

          #5
          hey thanks for the information guys, this defiantly helps alot. right now i have not assembled much so i can really make sure what i have is the stuff that was prefered stuff for this yr.. any onther information on how this cars tendencys were? Also i may have missed it but what are some recomendations for shocks. i understand every track is problay differnt, but i do have a set of bilstein shocks i picked up awile back. so i am curious to if i got lucky or if iam way off. Anyone with Big E experince that has any tips also?

          Comment

          • JB1K
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 102

            #6
            Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
            A narrow car can be setup close to a Smackdown. This is especially true if you can get a copy of an older Smackdown setup book from around 2004 or so. Basic setup for most places:

            500 450
            250 225

            55% left, 55% rear, 100# lr j bar near pinion height and 8" up from bottom of frame rail

            lr top in top, rr top one down, lr bottom second up, rr bottom link level

            Have fun.
            With my 00' masters already +50# over minimum weight, the rear is 53.7% (steel block & all of my lead is in the rear). The way I figure it, I will have to add about another 50-60# to the rear to get it close to 55%. That would make me +100-110# over minimum. What do you think? Car has almost always been a little tight going in. Thanks in advance for any advice.

            Comment

            • MasterSbilt_Racer
              Senior Member
              • May 2007
              • 14324

              #7
              Originally posted by JB1K View Post
              With my 00' masters already +50# over minimum weight, the rear is 53.7% (steel block & all of my lead is in the rear). The way I figure it, I will have to add about another 50-60# to the rear to get it close to 55%. That would make me +100-110# over minimum. What do you think? Car has almost always been a little tight going in. Thanks in advance for any advice.
              You may be okay where you are at if the races are short. I'd like to see it around 54% though. Those older cars can get pretty tight with a lot of tail weight and often get better as the race goes on when you start with a heavy fuel load. I would certainly take a hard look at getting any weight off the front that you can find. I always use the smallest radiator that can do the job.

              The entry can get tighter or looser with more tail weight. It depends on the track shape and how you are driving it.
              Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

              Comment

              • JB1K
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 102

                #8
                Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
                You may be okay where you are at if the races are short. I'd like to see it around 54% though. Those older cars can get pretty tight with a lot of tail weight and often get better as the race goes on when you start with a heavy fuel load. I would certainly take a hard look at getting any weight off the front that you can find. I always use the smallest radiator that can do the job.

                The entry can get tighter or looser with more tail weight. It depends on the track shape and how you are driving it.
                Thanks for the reply. Most races I run are 25 laps, once in a while 40. No matter what I do the car is usually a little snug getting in and through the center, then a little loose off.

                On the same subject, do you think these old cars are really capible of being competive with newer models?

                Sorry to hi-jack the thread!

                Comment

                • MasterSbilt_Racer
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2007
                  • 14324

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JB1K View Post
                  Thanks for the reply. Most races I run are 25 laps, once in a while 40. No matter what I do the car is usually a little snug getting in and through the center, then a little loose off.

                  On the same subject, do you think these old cars are really capible of being competive with newer models?

                  Sorry to hi-jack the thread!
                  The lack of rf travel hurts, no doubt. That limits what you can do. On average or heavier tracks I think the old cars are fine. It might be tough on slick momentum tracks to compete.
                  Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

                  Comment

                  • RCJ
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 509

                    #10
                    If you use a gas shock on the 5th coil would you want to drop the spring to a 325 or 300?

                    Comment

                    • JAMESGANGRACING
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2007
                      • 192

                      #11
                      this site has a lot of old set ups http://www.thedirtforum.com/toolbox.htm

                      Comment

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