Starters?

[riddle28]

i also run an extra ground cable from bellhousing flange on the engine to the motor plate tab on the car. It cant hurt when everything is powdercoated

[lazermod3]

For some reason we seem to go through 4-5 starters a year, and then I see some people gets 3-4 years out of one? Ive tried Power Master, Bert, Allstar, done the Toyota Starter deal, and nothing seems to work very long. Is anyone else flying through Starters?? We buy as many Starters as Tires lolIve added grounds, covered when washing, took off when washing, 12v Battery, 16v battery, keep the Idler gear lubricated.... just to name a few... what am I missing??

Most of the problems are associated with washing the engine area,mud lay's inside the starter causing it to be inop.You say you have used a Bert starter! Are you sure? People have built starters,and affix a Bert Decal on them,causing you to think it's a Bert Deal,NOT SO! Bert makes a starter,that most late model teams,and mod. teams use.The drainage hole for the water to escape is located in the correct position.

The best starter that I have ever had,and still use today,(13yrs old)is a TILTON,with A BERT designed nose piece.

[Krooser]

I'm going to do the Toyota started conversion this winter.

I ordered one with 5HP but got a 3HP as I recall.

I guess I will see how it works... just spin the starter then hit the ignition swith. Just like old times.

[Lizardracing]

On this topic I bought my QM from a guy, that was his spare and not used. I had it apart a silly coned it shut, sealing off water/dirt. It's been great too me for 10 years.

[racer69]

Running a shut-off in line? I am one who will never run a separate ford solenoid. It is only another place for voltage or amp drop. No matter what your starters solenoid still has to kick in. Just becasue you run the signal wire to the hot post of starter doesnt remove the system. But back to my point. Starters biggest enemy is low current. Period. According to rules we almost all have shut off kill switches. 90% somewhere in between the battery and the starter. Some in the ground side. Have an extra in the shop? Look at the bottom of that switch and check the specs out. They are not rated for what we do. I have started running my battery cable straight to the starter. And the kill is only in the battery feed wire that goes to your smaller switches. It will still work just like officials want. Will still kill the car. But your starter will gain big time. I was about to invest in a whole 16v setup. Now my car whirls just like the 16v cars on 12v. Some of yall probably been doing this for years. But every kill I have seen was wired in the supply to the starter. Just something to think about

[JCSullivan00]

I know there used to be a guide floating around for the Toyota starters. Does anyone still have one for doing the conversion? Wouldn't mind having a spare.

[billetbirdcage]

I know there used to be a guide floating around for the Toyota starters. Does anyone still have one for doing the conversion? Wouldn't mind having a spare.

Chris Steele 01-31-2018, 11:17 AM



No photo tutorial, but here's step by step instructions...Alright, here's the deal. A 1987 Toyota pickup starter for the 22R engine @ Autozone Auto Parts part #16674X for $49.99 with one-year warranty. Don't spring the extra $20 bucks for the lifetime warranty starter because your going to modify it and the warranty will be void anyway.

should be able to do it in 35-40 minutes max.

1. Remove starter head, be careful because there's a middle gear that has a shaft through it that comes out when you remove the head and the gear has roller bearings in it that could fall out. But if they do they are simple to put back in the bottom of the gear.
2. Remove the gear drive from the starter head.
3. Disassemble the gear drive by pushing the shaft up and the gear down to expose the lock ring. Remove the lock ring so you can remove the gear, now remove the small spring, large spring and the washer that has inner grooves and trash them. You'll also leave off the lock ring and ring that was at the end of the gear. Re-assemble the gear drive and get ready to do some welding. Put the gear flush with the end of the shaft and weld it there. You will need to leave the long spring that sticks up out of the starter when the gear drive is removed. The two springs to leave out are IN the gear drive.
4. You now need to get ready to cut on the starter head. There are two "rings" where the starter shaft comes through the head. One is the large one that lines the starter up, the other is smaller right around the hole where the gear comes through. You need to cut the inner/small ring so it's level with the outer ring if you were to lay a straight edge across them.
5. Re-assemble the starter gear drive and starter head onto the starter and tighten bolts.
6. Now remove the cover on the other end of the starter that has 3 small screws holding it on. Take the centerpiece out and put some silicone on the contact that has one small wire to help prevent it from breaking and re-assemble that end. Put your jumper wire on and your ready.

ps make sure the starter gear has a back stop made on the gear. some dont they are open .. if it dont have the back stop it will not engage the bert starter gear to the engine flywheel

[Krooser]

Thanks Billet....I lost my instructions...this helps.

[Ltemodel]

Save yourself years of frustration and lots of grey hair and even a shortage of hair from pulling it out with these reverse mount stater with idler deals. They are expensive, but the Quarter Master starter system is the only way to go. (if everything is perfect and you do all which is expected above, (lots of good advice, by the way), you will still end up with problems sometimes. We switched to the Quarter Master setup and it is the best decision we ever made. You will never have to worry about the grind of death again.