Lr droop load range

[billetbirdcage]

So on a Rocket setup sheet I've seen they say 150 LR droop load to free up, 250 to tighten up... but I've taken out LR load to gain sidebite and it made better grip all around in the slick. So why the conflicting info? Is Rocket saying this just to affect drive on exit or what?

Much of the confusion comes in from the attitude of the car at certain times. Example:

Say the car is 100% against the chain all the way around the track (adding load to the LR spring DOES NOT mean there is more load on the LR tire to the ground) therefore you may/should not see much change in exit adjusting the extended load.

Now if you say lower it and it allows the car to set down some, then obviously this is gonna change exit.

Again a lot of this boils down to attitude and if the car is seeing weight come back to the LR on entry.

[matt_s86]

That's some good info. I probably wasn't really considering whether i was against the chain the whole time.What I'm trying to understand however is why would Rocket tell you to ADD load to tighten up when it seems as though removing load tightens the car up? What am I missing here?

[billetbirdcage]

That's some good info. I probably wasn't really considering whether i was against the chain the whole time.What I'm trying to understand however is why would Rocket tell you to ADD load to tighten up when it seems as though removing load tightens the car up? What am I missing here?

As a general statement I would agree that most of the time for most people adding extended load with tighten the car thru the middle on the gas. But as I said it's not always gonna be true and sometimes the change in entry is felt as a change in exit mostly by the driver because the car is turned more or less then before so they really only notice the exit as the change but the change was actually due to entry.

So much depends on the cars attitude and what the driver is doing in the car, to what your gonna feel or see as far as where or how it changes the car. If the driver/car tends to stay up a ton and barely moves getting in, then LR load will effect entry more then exit. If the car tends to drop and not stay up as well, then usually the driver feels it more as an exit adjustment but it still effects entry they just typically don't feel it.

Note: when I say entry I mean off the gas, if your not lifting then there is no real entry

[Jking24]

That's some good info. I probably wasn't really considering whether i was against the chain the whole time.What I'm trying to understand however is why would Rocket tell you to ADD load to tighten up when it seems as though removing load tightens the car up? What am I missing here?

Not to argue or contradict anything but where have you seen this info from rocket ?

[matt_s86]

A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"

[billetbirdcage]

A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"

The way I read that "turns to top nut", you are basically adding static LR bite. Which in general terms would be correct add wedge to tighten car and remove to loosen car - talking on throttle adjustment.

Sounds like they are describing a STD single spring, stack spring with no stop nuts or a digressive stack, all which adjusting the top nut will raise static bite.

[dirtdobberrr]

Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.

[Jking24]

Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.

While you are correct most people who are chasing lr drive are generally looking in the wrong area. They are usually to tight across the center witch induces their loose exit. Adding to the rf will make the car tighter everywhere when on fuel and especially at initial throttle pickup in our before center

[shadowj38]

A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"

I also received the same sheet. Robbie at rocket emailed it to me.

[shadowj38]

Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.

So what you’re saying is, if the car is indeed balanced well and just need a little more drive off the corner, adding extended load won’t add drive because of the chain limiter? Not arguing, just trying to understand because I had never given that a thought.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

When your chain is tight, all up and down forces are balanced. All that's left is the weight on the lr. Most people don't have a tight chain all the way around the track, however.

[CCHIEF]

If you can't get to the static/extended load you want or need ,a longer spring is necessary most likely if a single 75#. Buy a quality spring!