What is the best option for spindles for blue front crate car, standard blue, 1/2†drop, xr1?
Blue/gray Spindle
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Because it's a bandaid approach your just raising the front of your car up. You're not actually gaining any more travel the rack plate still crashes at the same point and now your front end geometry is even worse because your suspension has to move further than it originally did to get to the same point. I've also never seen anyone run well with them. Our blue grey stuff was the best when the skid plate was into the racetrack. In fifteen i think we won 12 races and only raced like 22 times. I would weld the skid plate back up like every three weeks lolOriginally posted by rocklefty19 View PostJking24 why do you recommend to stay away from the drop spindles?
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Jking24 I appreciate the input. was debating putting drop spindles on this year or XR1 spindles. really the only time I have a problem is on a rough track and then it bottoms out hard and shoves the nose if I dont get it onto the rr first. in the slick smooth I have zero complaints but around here it is usually slick and rough.
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So the suspension travels more, or it doesn't? I'm no Rocket guy, but I know folks who hoard those spindles.Originally posted by Jking24 View PostBecause it's a bandaid approach your just raising the front of your car up. You're not actually gaining any more travel the rack plate still crashes at the same point and now your front end geometry is even worse because your suspension has to move further than it originally did to get to the same point. I've also never seen anyone run well with them. Our blue grey stuff was the best when the skid plate was into the racetrack. In fifteen i think we won 12 races and only raced like 22 times. I would weld the skid plate back up like every three weeks lol
I've also seen it help in other applications.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I didn't say anything about smashing into the racetrack and unloading the tires i said their the fastest when the plate is in the racetrack. To be interpreted as scraping or skimming the track not crashing.Originally posted by Burke1118 View PostCan someone explain to me how parts of the racecar smashing into the track, unloading both front tires, is faster under any scenario?
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It moves the snout down raising the actual ride height of the car with the suspension at the standard ride height dimension as measured between the frame and lower control arm. So basically at the same amouny of travel the nose will not be down as far. In my experience the car is not as good at that point so once you get the nose down to the same location as before the suspension has now traveled further. I have seen these spindals help people but most of those people were not front runners and had issues with how they used the pedals. Blue grey cars were very soft on the nose so guys that were overly aggressive with the brake pedal struggled in them. Guys that were good at keeping the car loaded up but not as jabby with the pedal usually went better. This is only my experienceOriginally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostSo the suspension travels more, or it doesn't? I'm no Rocket guy, but I know folks who hoard those spindles.I've also seen it help in other applications.
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Got ya. I'd have to assume, with some geometry corrections, the extra travel would be a benefit.Originally posted by Jking24 View PostIt moves the snout down raising the actual ride height of the car with the suspension at the standard ride height dimension as measured between the frame and lower control arm. So basically at the same amouny of travel the nose will not be down as far. In my experience the car is not as good at that point so once you get the nose down to the same location as before the suspension has now traveled further. I have seen these spindals help people but most of those people were not front runners and had issues with how they used the pedals. Blue grey cars were very soft on the nose so guys that were overly aggressive with the brake pedal struggled in them. Guys that were good at keeping the car loaded up but not as jabby with the pedal usually went better. This is only my experience
On Mastersbilt cars, I've run drop spindles, cut and moved stuff, every time I added travel correctly, the cars got faster.Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 12-01-2020, 10:59 AM.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I agree 100% on a blue grey car the rack plate is the problem. Fix it and you fix your travel issues. One other thing i didn't mention is on a blue grey car the upper balljoint is already very close to the shock body at full travel so the use of the "drop" spindals worsens this situation.Originally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View PostGot ya. I'd have to assume, with some geometry corrections, the extra travel would be a benefit.On Mastersbilt cars, I've run drop spindles, cut and moved stuff, every time I added travel correctly, the cars got faster.
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Makes sense. On Smackdown cars, I lengthened the rf lower and moved the top out.Originally posted by Jking24 View PostI agree 100% on a blue grey car the rack plate is the problem. Fix it and you fix your travel issues. One other thing i didn't mention is on a blue grey car the upper balljoint is already very close to the shock body at full travel so the use of the "drop" spindals worsens this situation.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Our 14 has the new rack plate and we're still scrubbing the track some. But then we're way softer than what Rocket recommends, it was just too stiff for the tracks we race on.Originally posted by Jking24 View PostI agree 100% on a blue grey car the rack plate is the problem. Fix it and you fix your travel issues. One other thing i didn't mention is on a blue grey car the upper balljoint is already very close to the shock body at full travel so the use of the "drop" spindals worsens this situation.
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