When trying to decide to buy a car last year, we ran into Mark at a race and asked his opinion on a car for a 602 class. He said "the xr1 will be better, because it rolls easier". Anyone know the why?
XR1 vs B/G
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I don't think those things address rolling resistance.Originally posted by ZERO25 View PostIs the crossmember higher?
I know the rf spring is quite a bit softer, so im assuming theres more travel before it gets into the bump too hard.
What about length of j-bar?Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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If you can afford an XR1, get one of them. They are already in production for 5 years. I switched to an XR1 last year and it was better than my Orange/blue-gray hybrid. The crossmember never dragged on the race track. No need to waste on an older car unless money is an issue
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"rolls easier"......to me it means that the load on the rf and the lr lets the car turn easier. This modern stuff seams to not be as tight on entry to the middle. This means that either the right front is softer, or has more travel.....or maybe the left rear shock has MUCH more rebound(slower lr load, think about it). Most will not reply to this. Some of them have paid for the setup......most of them do not yet fully understand the setup. If you are truly capable of watching a car, and truly capable of understanding what the car needs, then you could be your own chassis company. Free entry and being able to roll the middle of the turn are the key. If the car is tight from middle out...add rebound to the rr until the car is no longer too tight on exit. The last sentence is copied from Johnny the Jet Saathoff.
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Much of this post scares me. Less rf spring rate tightens entry, adding rr rebound generally tightens middle and exitOriginally posted by dirtdobberrr View Post"rolls easier"......to me it means that the load on the rf and the lr lets the car turn easier. This modern stuff seams to not be as tight on entry to the middle. This means that either the right front is softer, or has more travel.....or maybe the left rear shock has MUCH more rebound(slower lr load, think about it). Most will not reply to this. Some of them have paid for the setup......most of them do not yet fully understand the setup. If you are truly capable of watching a car, and truly capable of understanding what the car needs, then you could be your own chassis company. Free entry and being able to roll the middle of the turn are the key. If the car is tight from middle out...add rebound to the rr until the car is no longer too tight on exit. The last sentence is copied from Johnny the Jet Saathoff.
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What was better about the xr1?Originally posted by TRocket8 View PostIf you can afford an XR1, get one of them. They are already in production for 5 years. I switched to an XR1 last year and it was better than my Orange/blue-gray hybrid. The crossmember never dragged on the race track. No need to waste on an older car unless money is an issue
Were racing for $600 weekly (crate), kinda hard to justify 20-30k for a roller!
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Payout
Does anyone really count the weekly payout To justify your racing budget? Unless you’re winning series races on a weekly basis, the payout might cover your fuel and some of the tires you used... sorry, comparing payout to your budget for a car never made sense to me. We are all spending wayyyy more than we make in racingOriginally posted by ZERO25 View PostWhat was better about the xr1?
Were racing for $600 weekly (crate), kinda hard to justify 20-30k for a roller!
Back to the topic, I’ve seen fast XR1’s and fast B/G Rockets here in PA. Setup and driver will make them both winners or losers
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