If you drop both right side bars on the chassis, would this increase rollsteer if the RR travel stays the same?
Right side bars
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During compression travel, the rr wheel will be closer to the rf wheel than it was with the bars higher. I call this less roll steer.Originally posted by shadowj38 View PostIf you drop both right side bars on the chassis, would this increase rollsteer if the RR travel stays the same?Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Well that kills my theory. Been having trouble with my car not driving straight enough off the corner. Someone advised me to drop both right side bars. I did that for this past Saturday and it seemed to have little affect on my car. Now the track was a little more slick than usual but I still expected this change to be fairly noticeable. But the car felt pretty much the same. Thought maybe that change may have move the RR back creating more roll steer and that is why I didn’t notice much of a change? But maybe the track was quite a bit more slick than what I realized and lower both right side bars wasn’t enough of a change to keep up with the track conditions? Just trying to think out loud?
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You may want to check how much your birdcage indexing was changed. It's possible you gained birdcage rotation during compression and loaded the rr spring more. The shorter your rr bottom is, compared to the top, the more you will see this.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Loading my RR spring is what I was trying to counteract by lowering my right side bars. I was gaining a lot more temp in my RR tire than I was in my LR. So I took a bunch of static load out of my RR then added some rubbers to gain my dynamic load back. That seemed to really help with my tire temp. But I’m assuming because of the added spring rubbers making the spring act stiffer, that was causing the car to want to drive off the corner sideways. So I lowered both right side bars to try and drive straighter off the corner. Am I making this harder on myself than it needs to be?
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You are dealing with two parts of exit, that everyone has to figure out. There is the need to load the two tires correctly and the need to get the axle pointing the right direction. You can get the car driving neutral but have bad traction if both are wrong, but helping each other. Say you are almost all rr weight, but you have the axle pointing toward the infield. Car can go straight, but won't have much grip.
If you think loading is good, try to make adjustments with less side effects. Say, just a static wheelbase change.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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I’m glad you mentioned where base. I lengthened my left side bars for the feature. But unfortunately got caught up in a mess that ended my night on the second lap. But from trying to get heat in my tires under pace laps I believe I was getting close to where I needed to be. Just wish I could have ran some laps to see.
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You missed my point. I said not talking compression so that leaves rebound, stop and think about the RR rebounding and what moving those bars down does when the car raises over ride height on the RR.
Note: The RR isn't below ride hieght very long and is above ride height most of the time
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But I’m assuming what you’re getting at is with the bars lower, it doesn’t pull the RR ahead as far when the RR is in rebound meaning the right side wheel base is actually longer on the rebound than it would be if the bars were higher?
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If you lower the top, but it still has enough thrust to reach your travel limit, dropping the bar may have slowed that action, but when you reach the limit, only steer matters. You are correct in what he is getting at.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Just so you know where I’m working from. With my bars in standard holes and my car at ride height, the RRT rod is 21.5 degrees and the RRL rod is 2 degrees. I dropped one hole on each and as long as I figured my math right the RRT rod would have been 19.1 degrees and the RRL rod would have been real close to -.5 degrees.
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