What is the consensus on the new tires after a fair amount of time on them now. We are still able to run 1350s and have not been on the new tires yet. About to have to swap over to the NLMT 2&3 tires soon. Do people groove them any different or just sipes or a combo of both? I have been told the 2 is a little softer and the 3 is a little harder than the 1350. Do they fall off faster or able to maintain pretty good? What about air pressures? Do they need anything different cause of a new sidewall? Sorry for all the questions have had a huge rash of rocks or debris. Cut 4 rear tires in 2 weeks. some with only 3 laps on them. All have been cuts in different parts of the treads, nothing rubbing or touching just crap luck. That's racing.
Nlmt tires
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#2 is equal to the old LM 20. #3 is equal to the LM30 and same rubber as 1450, if you ever had one of those. #2 works good if it stays cool or wears fast enough. It will "shut off" on you if it gets hot and isn't still wearing. #3 likes some heatOriginally posted by Mopar DLM View PostWhat is the consensus on the new tires after a fair amount of time on them now. We are still able to run 1350s and have not been on the new tires yet. About to have to swap over to the NLMT 2&3 tires soon. Do people groove them any different or just sipes or a combo of both? I have been told the 2 is a little softer and the 3 is a little harder than the 1350. Do they fall off faster or able to maintain pretty good? What about air pressures? Do they need anything different cause of a new sidewall? Sorry for all the questions have had a huge rash of rocks or debris. Cut 4 rear tires in 2 weeks. some with only 3 laps on them. All have been cuts in different parts of the treads, nothing rubbing or touching just crap luck. That's racing.
I don't do anything different with air pressure. Not saying that's correct, but has worked well so far.
Neither tire is as good as a 1350 or a 1300.Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 07-25-2023, 11:03 AM.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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masters is spot onOriginally posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post#2 is equal to the old LM 20. #3 is equal to the LM30 and same rubber as 1450, if you ever had one of those. #2 works good if it stays cool or wears fast enough. It will "shut off" on you if it gets hot and isn't still wearing. #3 likes some heat
I don't do anything different with air pressure. Not saying that's correct, but has worked well so far.
Neither tire is as good as a 1350 or a 1300.
you can't hustle the car on entry near as hard with 20's, if your bad about sliding the car just a bit on 1350's your going to hate 20's, and you'll need to work on your set up a tick, because once you get to much heat in a 20 your done, and no it won't come back in the race unless a caution comes out (a 1350 will come back if you calm down a lap or two)
the 30 is a good tire to me but only will last a race or 2, they fall off after a couple of cycles
but when all is said and done you will have to tweak your set up a little bit, but don't get carried away if your running up front, the 20 or #2 will make the car tighter also, but depends on the dirt tooLast edited by grt74; 07-25-2023, 04:27 PM.
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UMP guys have run these tires for years. They aren't changing a thing.Originally posted by Mopar DLM View PostAny way over the winter they change the compounds or sidewalls and help the racer or do they just leave them alone and continue to back the Brinks truck up at every show?Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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