Take the following for what it's worth. We run a DLM with a 819 hp SB2.2 on gas. CV 15% reduction pulleys, Adams pump, 28-32 lb cap, 4 blade GM fan, 1/2 in 1/2 out of a decent shroud, Howe double pass radiator and we have to run 2-3 rows of duct tape on a 105* day to keep engine at 200* On a cold night we will have 5 rows of tape on it...We always ran a racing thermostat on our other engines, but the SB2.2 intake manifold does not have the machined groove for one and the engine builder said run with out restrictor or thermostat...2 years now...
water pump
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The part that most people fail to realize is that the water has to be moving more than 2 times faster through a double pass to get the same amount of water flow as a single pass as it is running through smaller passages and has to turn a 180 degree U-turn that has dead spots in the corners that will not flow. So in reality it is actually in the radiator less. I think the benefit most people see from using one is they do not have a properly designed system and the double or triple pass creates a restriction that allows the pump to create back pressure in the system.Originally posted by rubbinsracin View Postthe theory behind it is that the water has the ability to go through the top half of the radiator first, then back trough the bottom half second, therefore increasing the amount of time it has to cool before it goes back through the motor.
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i completely agree Ego. we always ran a single pass a had almost no problems until it got busted by having something go right through it. im just stating what we saw just by simply swapping a single out for a double pass with no other changes. oh and i guess we had to buy a swivel neck for the radiator hose on the intake. we had a properly designed/running system before. and now we have a properly designed/running system now. im just stating that with our combo provides a little better cooling. especially on warmer days.
sj valley dave, im sure that there are better systems out there. just telling you what we do. we run not run it restricted or a t-stat either. as living_truth said, its a heck of a lot easier to keep an aluminum motor cool. heck its easier to keep just an aluminum head motor cool.
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thank u for all the replys great stuff i looked at 1 of the faster cars this weekend he had a pro power with an adams pump afco radiator with a shroud running on 114 vp fuel he was 200 all night thats what im looking for i did retard the timing a little last night noticed it was right at 34 degrees so i cut it back to 32 that should help a little we will see!!! might not need a pump if i add a shroud !!!!!!! thanks guys jeff
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before i dialed back the timing id take a day and fab up some kind of shroud or spend a few bucks on a good shroud. be the best money you ever spent. i bet you see a 10-20* difference w/ a shroud.
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What kind of cylinder heads do you have? Ignition timing really varies with head design. The more efficient the head, the less timing you need for HP. With our SB2.2 heads they made the most power at 30.5 degrees....
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i have dart pro 1 heads ultra dyne 4/7 swap cam with 15.5 to 1 compression also i realized for whatever reason i only have a 15 inch 4 blade fan on there what does everybody else run that could be the problems thanks jeff ps the fan on my truck is 18 inch !!!! lol might be a problem lol
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