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Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.
Sorry, I agree with 4bangerhotrod on this one. The chain isn't holding the car up the bar is, so more angle IS producing more thrust. It's not like it hits the chain and somehow magically locks in place, the bar is still providing the force to keep it up and that force vector is dependent upon the angle that the bar is at. To a point...after about 45 degrees it looses its effectiveness. I've even seen birdcages cam over doing this and that makes a racecar very evil to drive.
Set your chain length so that the upper bar is at about 45 degrees in the slick and you should be alright. Changing chain length makes a very noticeable difference in handling.
When a bar change is made that increases thrust angle to tighten the car but also increases rear steer to loosen the car, you can usually bet that the net result will be tighter unless you are on really hard tires or way off somewhere else on your setup.
im not trying to be a smart azz or hijack anyones post, ive never run a chain,but if the thrust angle of the bar is trying to push the tire away from the chassis and into the dirt and you have tire restricted by a chain and it cant travel any further down or the chassis cant go up any more up, at this point how can the angle of the bar put more tire pressure on the ground, it seems to me it would put more pressure on the chain, not trying to offend anyone on here, just trying to understand this
here is how i had it explained to me. hopefully it makes sense to you....
you measure the chain to full droop....usually a measurement from the chassis builder....and set it up to be right at full droop(maybe just a smidge more). this is because once the car gets past this measurement, you are loosing drive. so the chain makes sure that you stay at the maximum amount of drive and no much further because you are just going backwards once you get past a certain amount of droop.
of course if you are rolling over and yanking the chain, you are going to be lifting the tire off the ground, therefore losing more traction, but if you are going over that far, you are probably running into problems other with your setup. like our car for instance, is an underslung car and our car's underslung bar is about 1/4 of an inch past where our maximim bar angle is, so in effect our limiter is our rail, but we have never gotten to the point that we hit the underslung rail anyway so we are ok.
im not trying to be a smart azz or hijack anyones post, ive never run a chain,but if the thrust angle of the bar is trying to push the tire away from the chassis and into the dirt and you have tire restricted by a chain and it cant travel any further down or the chassis cant go up any more up, at this point how can the angle of the bar put more tire pressure on the ground, it seems to me it would put more pressure on the chain, not trying to offend anyone on here, just trying to understand this
I think the thrust and the chain balance out at that point. All load is derived from how much you have lifted the chassis.
im not trying to be a smart azz or hijack anyones post, ive never run a chain,but if the thrust angle of the bar is trying to push the tire away from the chassis and into the dirt and you have tire restricted by a chain and it cant travel any further down or the chassis cant go up any more up, at this point how can the angle of the bar put more tire pressure on the ground, it seems to me it would put more pressure on the chain, not trying to offend anyone on here, just trying to understand this
No offense taken...this is a friendly debate. But based on your logic, if the chain is tight, all of the force is taken up by the chain. If that was the case there wouldn't be ANY drive in the LR when he car is "on the chain" and believe me there is. Like MBRacer said, there is probably a balancing point there somewhere.
Short on time right now but........what is causing the chassis to lift?
Birdcage indexing into SPRING from axle thrust pushing up on chassis?
Axle thrust pushing axle under and up on BARS?
Weight transfer from cornering and lr spring unloading?
Extra body roll from getting the CG RAISED up in the air?
Feel free to add to list!
Short on time right now but........what is causing the chassis to lift?
Birdcage indexing into SPRING from axle thrust pushing up on chassis?
Axle thrust pushing axle under and up on BARS?
Weight transfer from cornering and lr spring unloading?
Extra body roll from getting the CG RAISED up in the air?
Feel free to add to list!
All of the above.....except the smiley face with the sun glasses. I don't think that has anything to do with hike.
Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.
The force created on the LR is just a combination of weight, vertical and lateral force, and gravity. All the chain does is limit how much weight can be transferred over by how high you can make the left side frame rail. Now during hike, there is extra force put down on the LR by resistance to transfer, but once it hits max extension, then your weight on that wheel becomes constant, regardless of drive angle.
All your drive angle does is change the force during hike up, getting you to max slower or faster, and changing the load on the LR during the process. Now if it's not limited with a chain, or you're not hitting tension on the chain, that's a different story.
3 consecutive rain outs, so it hasn't been on the track since early June. Open practice tomorrow, weather permitting. Got a carb issue to work out along with chassis hike. So it should be a busy night. Our next race isn't until August 6th.
I will post updates. Threads like this can be constructive.
Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.
I'm just curious what year of warrior it is. I've had a 04 over rail, worked and setup a 03 under rail, and currently have a 01 under rail im setting up and gonna be working on the rest of the year and next season. My car was a super with a spec and also had a limited steel head engine ran in it. The other 2 are limited steel heads and all 3 have seemed to always balance out the same and have ended up with same springs etc. I'm not sure what u gotta weigh but the limiteds where at 2350 and all 3 had the weights in the same area and always were the same amount. This was with a 170lb driver. We had 50lbs in the driver compartment in front of the seat. Then 40lbs at dry sump rant if it was a wet sump and 10lbs on the bar that runs from the x up to the bar that the lift bar shock is on. I know I always set the cars with 120lbs of bite and then jacked the car up and put the chain on and made sure the LR spring was preloaded 1/4 in. Also when scaled the 4 bars are in the neutral starting point. Also make sure your lift bar is unloaded. But my RR was always a little high but check York rake in the RR frame rail as long as its in the 3/4 to 1in area you are close. Maybe this will help also the cars don't like a week RR spring.
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