High Oil Temps?

[Kromulous]

What are some causes?

Excessive blow by, tight engine clearances ?

Engine is in a Mod, wet sump, Titan Internal Pump, ran hot, so we Changed it to a Extenral Barnes single Stage and new Pan.

Cooler, no spring oilers, feeding thru a filter adaptor on the Block, so standard oil feed location.

Checked the gauge, its within spec, Oil temp probe is in the Cooler, outbound side to the Block.

Routing is Pan, Pump, Cooler, Filter, to Block. (this is how we used to run our dry sump stuff).


Thanks, Krom

[billetbirdcage]

I'm not 100% on if I know exactly how the single external systems work for sure but I assume they still use the pan for the sump or reservoir. If the pan is overfull the crank will whip the oil and create heat just like a dry sump that has bad scavenge sections.

I joked this for years, never put a oil temp sensor on a wet sump because all it will do is scare you.

Things to look for:

1. Over full pan
2. Pump speed too high and having to bypass a lot of oil to lower pressure to where its set too. This just causes it to repump the oil several times and overly heat the oil.
3. Similar to pump speed but too large a pump section for engine. Like using a large pump made for an aluminum block with oilers on a steel block with no oilers.

What kind of oil temps are you seeing for a known water temp? like oil temp is 20 degrees hotter or 80 degrees or etc?
Steel pan or aluminum pan? Does it have a windage tray or something to help oil stay off rotating assembly?

[Kromulous]

Yep, oil reservoir is the pan, it has a full length windage tray as well, Pan is Aluminum, Dan Olsen.

I did have to back the pump off quite a bit, pressure bypass screw, someone had it cranked all the way in (bought it used) so they must of had spring oilers or something. The pressure was crazy high, like 80 psi at idle, backed it off to 50 cold. What pressure should it be set to is another good question too? maybe i need to back it off more.

Temps are 200 Water, and about 260 on the oil, temp probe is at the Cooler exit. The old Titan Internal pump would hit 270, temp probe in the same location.

Maybe its not as bad as we thought, never had high oil temp issues before thou. Thinking about a couple things, add spring oilers and another probe just before it enters the engine.

[Jking24]

I agree with billet wet sumps shouldn't have a gauge lol. Back when we ran traditional wet sumps on a two barrel it wasn't uncommon to see north of 300 in a heat race and high 200's in a feature of it went green all the way. Another thing is to much timing. If your on a good fuel that has good knock resistance you can over time the motor and create excessive cylinder pressure witch drives oil temps up. Also if the racecar is too tight. In the crate world if you call any of the big engine builders and tell them your consistently running hot despite the fact that you have all of their recommended package they will tell you your race car is too tight ( and their usually right) just fruit for thought

[billetbirdcage]

Krom, what is the pulley tooth count on each pulley for the oil pump? you may need to slow the pump down since it's likely a steel block and no oilers or excessive leakage but the oil temp differential isn't that bad. Ideally you'd like to see oil temp within 30 of water temp but not always possible if wide open

See how much your over 50% oil pump speed vs crank?

I'm assuming there isn't a bypass line from the pump back to the pan? (assume it only has a inlet and outlet on the pump) So if your spinning the pump way faster then needed for the desired oil pressure, it's just repumping more oil then needed due to large amount being bypassed

[Kromulous]

Yes its a Steel Block, forgot to add that.

No on the Bypass line as well.

I'll look at the pulley, its a Barnes single stage, i think they only offer one size of a pulley, but will call them.

[Kromulous]

I agree with billet wet sumps shouldn't have a gauge lol. Back when we ran traditional wet sumps on a two barrel it wasn't uncommon to see north of 300 in a heat race and high 200's in a feature of it went green all the way. Another thing is to much timing. If your on a good fuel that has good knock resistance you can over time the motor and create excessive cylinder pressure witch drives oil temps up. Also if the racecar is too tight. In the crate world if you call any of the big engine builders and tell them your consistently running hot despite the fact that you have all of their recommended package they will tell you your race car is too tight ( and their usually right) just fruit for thought

I'm starting to think we are not as bad off as i thought, 300 ? i would shut it off at that point LOL.

The Engine is a 13 degree steel block, it runs well, but getting tired. In the Heat Races its usually hammer down.

Do you guys know of anyone that makes a pressure tap for spring oilers? I see that they are usually -4 AN lines, and most tap into the front of the blocks cam tunnel, its a 1" NPT plug in there (Dart Block) I guess we can just make something with 2 -4 AN ports for both sides.

[billetbirdcage]

Typically with a dry sump we use something like this for the fitting in front or back of block to add VC oiler lines https://www.joesracing.com/product/j...inlet-fitting/

[Jking24]

Typically with a dry sump we use something like this for the fitting in front or back of block to add VC oiler lines https://www.joesracing.com/product/j...inlet-fitting/

This is what i would use also. They make some splitters but it doesn't create the most robust setup and i feel it would be very susceptible to failure in our environment.