06 Shaw Wont Turn

[aaallstar]

Ok need a little help here. We have an 06 Shaw Square Tube Car. This thing will enters good but the car wont rotate in the corner so back in the throttle the car car pushes bad. We run 2 3/8 tracks. One is a fast tight corner high bank track and the other fast medium bank with wide sweeping corners. Set up right now.

Springs Shock and Spring Behind LR
lf 500 rf400
lr 225 rr 250

Shocks Had LR with Spring behind on dummy with 8-0 Shock in front
LF 7-5 RF 3-6
LR 6-3 RR9-4

52% Left
51% Rear 67LBS of Bite We have been taking out rear and bite to try to free it up
50%Cross

LR Floated Brake and RF Brake Off

Bars LR Top is 3rd hole from top RR Top is Top Hole
LR Bottom is 2nd hole from bottom RR Bottom is Top Hole

Last time out I put 11.5 inches of j bar spit in it and it made the car rotate but it seems like it is just masking the real problem. I called shaw and kevin gave me some ideas but they didnt seem to help. Thanks for Reading.

[JET1130]

Get rid of that funky brake floater & get a bigger seat.lol.

[29racin]

i run a 07 and had same problem. went to a 375 rf and 200 lr seem to work good just a suggrstion. good luck

[Matt49]

I don't know Shaw cars but 11.5 inches of j-bar split sounds like a lot. Too much rake will stick the RR and not let the car turn through the center. Also too much weight mounted too high in the rear will plant your RR and not let the car turn. I would try flattening out the j-bar some. Where is it mounted on the pinion side? If you've got it on the bottom, lift that baby up to the pinion. 8-9" of split is a good place to start for most cars.
If you've got the bottom right bar all the way up to get your car to turn, there is a problem somewhere else. If you get the thing freed up by getting the j-bar up on the pinion, be prepared to fine tune it by lowering your right rear lower bar back to a more neutral position.
In other words, use the j-bar to get your mid-corner problem figured out and then if you're too free on entry go to the bottom right bar for help there. Lower is tighter.

[aaallstar]

I know 11.5 inches is alot of split and I dont want the run that much but like I said Ive been fighting this problem for months and it is the only thing that has made a difference. On a the RR lower bar there are only 2 holes so when I say its at the top it is just slightly upward. Right now the only lead I have on the car is about 30 pounds on the right front because kevin at shaw said it might help. Another question I have is that I have 12 inch springs on the car right now. Could it be possibly coil binding in the corner and not letting the car rotate?

[fastford]

like another poster suggested, soften rt frt and lft rear spring, also you might trail rt rear

[Snappy]

I am just an amateur in this set up game, but I don’t see the following items on your list of items that will keep Shaw lm from turning in the middle off. We had the same problems on 03 ½ #3 round tube Shaw a couple of years back, and after straightening out the items listed below, it will turn as needed. Heck the car is whole bunch better than the goat herder driving the beast. lol

Birdcage mounting position
Torque arm 5th coil setting
Front weight split
Front & Rear tire stagger
Front tire groove pattern


Mike
3m Racing

[aaallstar]

What front weight split worked best for you and stagger also. We have the torque arm set to what the shaw set up sheet said. 300 Spring with 7-3 Shock on fifth coil and 400 lb sixth. Birdcages are both straight up and down. Here were the numbers we ran the last time we took it out. Heat Race we went out with 7 inch Stagger in Rear and 3.5 inch in Front.

593 LF 509 RF
629 LR 563 RR 2293 Total with Driver and 10 Gallons of Fuel

[dualdj1]

for reference, those weights equal:

66lbs bite
53.27% left
51.96% rear
49.61% cross


To me, that seems pretty low on cross. Hard to plant that RF and get it to turn without some weight across there. Don't take out rear and bite, get your RF weight up and try and go even across the front. Unless someone knows a reason why that doesn't work on a shaw.

Also look at where any additional balast is on your front end. If you've got weight down low on the front left, it's not gonna transfer, and you won't get it to turn.

[aaallstar]

Ok thanks that information helps alot. Could someone give me an idea of a good basic set up. With wheel weights and percentages. Springs and Shocks. And front end settings. I understand that all cars work a little different but I could really use a good base line on what people are running these days.

[rubbinsracin]

we run an 01 shaw with 04 updates and here is what we have on the car

all of our 4 bars are in the base shaw setting

jbar is about 8.5" split

Springs
LF 500 RF 375
LR 225 RR 200

Shocks
LF 6c6r RF 4c6R
LR 4c4c RR 4c4r

around 80-110 lbs bite
52% left
54% rear
51% cross

the only thing that we dont have that is on the shaw setup sheet is we run a 10" RF Upper a-arm instead of an 8.5" with 1.5" spacers. we found that the 10" seems to be a little more predictable on different track conditions from slick to heavy.

[lindsey97]

What about the 9-4 shock on the right rear, that doesn't seem right to me. Pm me an email address, I have a 2010 Shaw by Purkey that I'm running as a crate car, we can compare notes if you want.

[Snappy]

What front weight split worked best for you and stagger also. We have the torque arm set to what the shaw set up sheet said. 300 Spring with 7-3 Shock on fifth coil and 400 lb sixth. Birdcages are both straight up and down. Here were the numbers we ran the last time we took it out. Heat Race we went out with 7 inch Stagger in Rear and 3.5 inch in Front.

593 LF 509 RF
629 LR 563 RR 2293 Total with Driver and 10 Gallons of Fuel

We have roughly 8lbs more left front than right front of course we moved the motor to the right (aft looking fwd) as far as possible and add fifty lbs high as possible behind motor plate. My set up sheet are at the shop, but your birdcages should have a couple of degress past center to keep them from cam locking. Consider using gentleman suggestion on running the J bar around 8 1/2 to 9" on the frame
The front and rear stagger seems excessive 1" front / 4 to 5" rear
I really think I would stop long enough put the car back on the basic set up (top to bottom) and work out from that point. Also while resetting up the car check for something bend or binding parts on the car.

[jedclampit]

I'd have to try more left weight percentage first to get the car loosened up to rotate , 54% is where I would go. You have 53% now with the weights you indicated. Is this an all steel motor or steel block, your rear % is pretty low.Are you getting good travel at the rf, the high ph bar may give you a false reading there also stabbing the brakes will also. A honest run w/o nailing the brakes,and a relatively normal range of ph barmay give you a better indication.You may need a raised cg or lower roll center in the front to get weight to transfer to the rf. This can be a problem with a steel block and worse with aluminum heads.

[rubbinsracin]

What about the 9-4 shock on the right rear, that doesn't seem right to me. Pm me an email address, I have a 2010 Shaw by Purkey that I'm running as a crate car, we can compare notes if you want.

what do you run on your RR for a shock now? do you run like a 9in-3c3r or do you run a tiedown like a 9in-3c5r?