I got a Afco Traction Gas shock..I have been running Afco Regular 50/50 shocks on my Grt..I got 75's on front with 94's on back...just wondering in order to run my traction shock on the lr in front of axle would i have to change my 94 shock behind shock to a split valve shock to run to traction shock or would it just be fine??? Thanx
Traction Shock Question
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You need to be split all the way around car in order to get a consistent car. Now if your racing in a tacky hooked up track you can get by with 5s and 4s. But in the slick you need split stuff. On my older grt we ran 5/3 550lb lf, 3/5 375lb rf, 3/5 225lb rr, 5/3 or 8/2 250lb lr, 3/7 300lb lift bar, we hardly ever ran a traction shock and won alot races with that combo. I hardly ever changed shocks or springs from the tacky and slick we justed freed the car up with bars. But that's my opinion and everybody are differentLast edited by fox1162002; 02-11-2012, 06:43 PM.
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On our older GRT we ran similiar shock splits before we went to double adjustable gas monotubes. We ran a 9/3 split on the LR behind with no traction shock. We run a 500 lb/400 lb split in the front springs though.
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There is no rule that says you have to run split valves all around the car. U need a base line to start and tune from there. Also shocks are timing devices so to say you need split valves isn't always true it depends on driver, track conditions, and track size i know some people that still run some straight valving along with split. We run a traction shock but the car was getting up on the bars so fast we had to change valving to calm it down if you car works with what you got already just put the traction shock on and try it and go from there.
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I think we often get lost in the idea that getting the car up on the bars is all for getting bar angle to generate forward bite. Don't forget we are also trying to get side bite on entry and through the center. If you can get the left side up to generate lateral weight transfer (because of increase j-bar angle and raised VCG), that weight needs to go somewhere (to the right side). One sure fire way to make sure that weight gets there fast and stays there through the center of the corner is to split valve the right side shocks with softer rebound and stiffer compression.
Not saying that's what you need but just giving you another way of looking at it.
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Hey Matt, I think you mean to stiffen compression and easy up on the rebound on the left side to allow weight to roll easier onto the right side...
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I dont know who started the idea of more lr bar angle=more drive, but it hasnt worked on any lm ive setup yet. Maybe our tracks are different down here in the south. Also, when the car is up on the bars, dynamically the car is de-wedged. Also, the oversteer that is created seems to outweigh the forward thrust that is induced. This is also confirmed by many engineers in our industry.
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In conjunction with softer compression and stiffer rebound on the right side to let the weight get there and stay there longer. I'm simply making the argument for split valve shocks on the right side for someone considering running a blow-up shock on the LR.Originally posted by sj valley dave View PostHey Matt, I think you mean to stiffen compression and easy up on the rebound on the left side to allow weight to roll easier onto the right side...
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Most people (but not all) are figuring out that once the LR upper bar gets past about 45 degrees, you start to lose the advantage of the thrust angle.Originally posted by drtrkr244 View PostI dont know who started the idea of more lr bar angle=more drive, but it hasnt worked on any lm ive setup yet. Maybe our tracks are different down here in the south. Also, when the car is up on the bars, dynamically the car is de-wedged. Also, the oversteer that is created seems to outweigh the forward thrust that is induced. This is also confirmed by many engineers in our industry.
I'm not sure about the idea that the car is "de-wedged" when up on the bars. I think many have found the opposite to be true. The increased thrust angle is providing added load on the LR while under acceleration but refer back to my first sentence...you can go too far.
And excessive oversteer because of roll rear steer is manageable. If you want a great deal of LR thrust angle without the excessive roll rear steer there are many ways to do it that will further compliment a slick track setup.
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Originally posted by Matt49 View PostMost people (but not all) are figuring out that once the LR upper bar gets past about 45 degrees, you start to lose the advantage of the thrust angle.
I'm not sure about the idea that the car is "de-wedged" when up on the bars. I think many have found the opposite to be true. The increased thrust angle is providing added load on the LR while under acceleration but refer back to my first sentence...you can go too far.
And excessive oversteer because of roll rear steer is manageable. If you want a great deal of LR thrust angle without the excessive roll rear steer there are many ways to do it that will further compliment a slick track setup.
As I stated, This was confirmed by several engineers in our industry. I was able to obtain some analysis from a dlm test on one of NASCAR,S seven post pull down rigs. I took this info to my race shop and started playing with the racecar while on the scales. Some people on here claim u cannot simulate racing conditions while on the scales. That is not TRUE! I was able to get very close once I understood about weight transfer. I,ve learned more in the past 3 years doing this than the other 20 years traveling all across the country , racing these type of cars.
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I believe you learn something that improved your race program, but the seven post is not applicable. The anti-squat in the rear suspension is to large to allow the results to be meaning full. You would need a dynamic kinematic and compliance rig to do this....this would load the suspension in the longitudinal and lateral directions.Originally posted by drtrkr244 View PostAs I stated, This was confirmed by several engineers in our industry. I was able to obtain some analysis from a dlm test on one of NASCAR,S seven post pull down rigs. I took this info to my race shop and started playing with the racecar while on the scales. Some people on here claim u cannot simulate racing conditions while on the scales.
Ghopper
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What I found out,basically, was a correlation between the loads on each tire and what the moment center was doing in the dynamic state. When I put the car on the scales at various dynamic ride heights and input that info with what my 3d moment center software showed. Most racers dont have a clue what weight transfers where during one circuit around a track. Thats the missing link you have to find out about your car . Only then, can u make accurate adjustments for the ever changing dirt track conditions!Originally posted by Ghopper View PostI believe you learn something that improved your race program, but the seven post is not applicable. The anti-squat in the rear suspension is to large to allow the results to be meaning full. You would need a dynamic kinematic and compliance rig to do this....this would load the suspension in the longitudinal and lateral directions.
Ghopper
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Well y'all can keep all the engineer stuff but I ran basic 5s and 4s for years and was always a decent car but not a front running car. Bought a car with the split stuff on it and found myself racing for the win week after week. It helped me and with shocks these days in my opinion they mean alot. I tell everybody that ask for help with set up is to get hooked up with a good shock guy and work with them. It means alot.
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Sorry about that, its easy to get carried awwy with this addiction to dlms.After doing this for over 25 years, ive seen alot of things .The biggest mistake i see is not being totally prepared week after week.If you have to skip a week do it.When u add up the costs for one trip to the track and the expenses at the track this sport gets very expensive. Stay home a week or two, get your stuff right, then you will have good results.Set up your car just like the builder says to inc his preferred components.Then if you have a problem he can help you.Dont fall for the trick part or trick setup of the week.Put your car on scales and jack it around at racing attitudes, you will be amazed at what u learn.Originally posted by fox1162002 View PostWell y'all can keep all the engineer stuff but I ran basic 5s and 4s for years and was always a decent car but not a front running car. Bought a car with the split stuff on it and found myself racing for the win week after week. It helped me and with shocks these days in my opinion they mean alot. I tell everybody that ask for help with set up is to get hooked up with a good shock guy and work with them. It means alot.
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I thought about doing this over the off season. How I could simulate my car in dive/roll/up on the bars when its sitting on scales. You can't just simply put a floor jack under it, because it is carrying the load and not the wheel. I thought about using some sort of turnbuckle in place of the coil overs. This way I can tie down and jack up any corner I wanted to. I just haven't gotten around to trying it. It's only my second season and I am still learning the basics. Putting a car into a dynamic state on scales is more "varsity" level stuff. I don't think I would know what to do with the information at this point. But it is something I have been thinking about.Originally posted by drtrkr244 View PostSorry about that, its easy to get carried awwy with this addiction to dlms.After doing this for over 25 years, ive seen alot of things .The biggest mistake i see is not being totally prepared week after week.If you have to skip a week do it.When u add up the costs for one trip to the track and the expenses at the track this sport gets very expensive. Stay home a week or two, get your stuff right, then you will have good results.Set up your car just like the builder says to inc his preferred components.Then if you have a problem he can help you.Dont fall for the trick part or trick setup of the week.Put your car on scales and jack it around at racing attitudes, you will be amazed at what u learn.Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.
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