Dual stage rf question

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  • Wheelman33
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 232

    #1

    Dual stage rf question

    Has anyone had any luck with a 4" top spring? Ran a 5" last yr with alot of success but switched to an aluminum engine this year and dont have enough threads on my shock to get the ride height correct. It looks like the 4" spring will coil bind b4 i hit dual stage nut. Just curious if anyone has run it this way
  • MasterSbilt_Racer
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 14324

    #2
    I have heard some say they got it to work, but I think you have to have relatively low static rf weight to have a chance.
    Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

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    • TALON75
      Senior Member
      • May 2007
      • 887

      #3
      what about just moving the shock mount up a little bit, I know it will change a little but might be better than trying to figure out a new spring set up if you like what you got now . I did it on our 09 Rocket to keep the shock from bottoming out, yes it didn't roll over as easy on the RF but made some other changes that hepled that happen and now she it is back to where I had it at the end of last year when we were running well and up front more often than not .
      www.RACE91.com

      Comment

      • MasterSbilt_Racer
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 14324

        #4
        Originally posted by TALON75 View Post
        what about just moving the shock mount up a little bit, I know it will change a little but might be better than trying to figure out a new spring set up if you like what you got now . I did it on our 09 Rocket to keep the shock from bottoming out, yes it didn't roll over as easy on the RF but made some other changes that hepled that happen and now she it is back to where I had it at the end of last year when we were running well and up front more often than not .
        I would rather add drop to the shock mount on the lower control arm, if that is possible.
        Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

        Comment

        • TALON75
          Senior Member
          • May 2007
          • 887

          #5
          Ditto, just think most guys already have that, if not then your correct that would be better .
          www.RACE91.com

          Comment

          • mmfan2008
            Member
            • Mar 2008
            • 51

            #6
            just shorten your bottom spring

            Comment

            • ENVY Suspension
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2008
              • 378

              #7
              Guys, if you will just buy the right length springs, life is much earier. Using a 6" or 7" spring is your best bet. Then, you totally avoid coil bind.

              Comment

              • grt74
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2009
                • 1380

                #8
                i agree with envy,and guys there is a lot of info on this in older posts,just do a search

                Comment

                • mab475
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 165

                  #9
                  Nothing wrong with using a 8" bottom and a 4" top spring just gotta know what your doing.

                  Comment

                  • MasterSbilt_Racer
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2007
                    • 14324

                    #10
                    If you are aware of, and okay with, the amount of combined rate travel it provides you.
                    Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

                    Comment

                    • ENVY Suspension
                      Senior Member
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 378

                      #11
                      If you do your homework on using a 4" spring, you probably will not use them to race is all im gonna say. I dont want to be contradicting anyone, but theres a reason some of us dont use them...

                      Comment

                      • AmickRacing
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2008
                        • 236

                        #12
                        Anyone wanting to elaborate on the difference between the 4" and 5"? In private is ok too if there might be ruffled feathers if it's in the open.

                        I think I can wrap my brain around the differences between them, and what the different effects are (whether that's right or wrong, I'm sure there's plenty of people doing good on both setups), but I'd like to know a little more about this since this is my first year on the stacked RF...
                        Here's my little home on Youtube!
                        http://www.youtube.com/user/AmickRacing
                        Home Page
                        http://www.AmickRacing.com

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                        • billetbirdcage
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2007
                          • 2020

                          #13
                          Forgetting any coil bind issues:

                          if you have a 4" top spring, you will be limited on how much gap you can give it.

                          Say you have a 4" top spring, a typical coilover nut (your very top nut) has around .625" of tapered cone sticking into the spring at the top. Then your floater plate also has a step on it to locate the bottom the upper spring typically around another .25". So without compressing the top spring at all, you have 4" - .625 - .25 = 3.125" between the top of the floater plate to the bottom of the top nut, then add in the thickness of your stop nut (.5"), your down to a maximum of 2.625" of allowable gap and the springs aren't even compressed yet. So if the rates you have chosen makes the top spring compress 1" at ride hieght, your down to 1.625" maximum gap that you could run.

                          Yes, it can work fine but you may want to have 2" of gap as there's a chance that you can't get that much cause the spring is too dam short.

                          All things being equal like a 4"/8" set up verses a 6"/6" set up is the latter will allow 2" of more allowable gap to be used if needed. You just need to have the right floater plate so it doesn't come off the bottom of the shock with the shock is fully extended. If it comes off the bottom of the shock body it could get hung on the bottom of the shock and really mess things you set-up up. If you using one the plastic floater plates, you better study that a little cause there is a major problem there!!!
                          Last edited by billetbirdcage; 05-13-2012, 04:36 AM.

                          Comment

                          • grt74
                            Senior Member
                            • Jul 2009
                            • 1380

                            #14
                            guys if you dont believe us ,or just want to know what will work best for you get a spring/shock rate machine,youll see why we are telling you this,and also be able to see any other problems you may not see,i would use 6/6" springs or 5/6" springs
                            Last edited by grt74; 05-13-2012, 08:58 PM.

                            Comment

                            • MasterSbilt_Racer
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2007
                              • 14324

                              #15
                              Originally posted by grt74 View Post
                              guys if you dont believe us ,or just want to know what will work best for you get a spring/shock rate machine,youll see why we are telling you this,and also be able to see any other problems you may not see,i would use 6/6" springs or 5/6" springs
                              To nit pick, if you have a 5" top, I would use an 8" bottom then you don't have to worry about the bottom coming off the shock body.
                              Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

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