wilwood electric brake shut off

[cjsracing]

Does anyone know where I might find a wiring diagram for one of these? I have it hooked up and it doesn't work so obviously I don't have it wired correctly (I suck at wiring).

Thanks

[jedclampit]

you either have the polarity backwards

or more than likely have it plumbed backwards(you plumb it opposite of what it tells you to do!)

[cjsracing]

Why would you plumb it opposite of what it tells you to do?

Right now when I flip the switch to shut it of it does nothing and keeps the RF brake on as if I didn't have the switch

[drtrkr244]

Remember, dont rest your foot on the brake pedal when flipping switch, or you will lock the pads onto the rotor.

This is a common mistake many racers make.

[cjsracing]

Remember, dont rest your foot on the brake pedal when flipping switch, or you will lock the pads onto the rotor.

This is a common mistake many racers make.

Wasn't doing that. Was in the garage spinning the tire, then flipping the switch then hitting the brake and it was still stopping the tire. Oh well I guess I'll just rewire it and try it again

[billetbirdcage]

Most of the line locks are made to hold the brakes on, like a parking brake (drag racing line lock)! They are made to hold pressure on the out side and when activated may still allow pressure to go in the "IN" side but not let pressure go back from the "OUT" side.

Generally speaking you have to go in the "OUT and out the "IN", this way the valve/seal works like it's supposed to, by not letting pressure go from "OUT" to "IN".

It's just the way the line inputs need to be configured not the wiring!

[Chico]

can you tell if the coil is actuating ?

[cjsracing]

Most of the line locks are made to hold the brakes on, like a parking brake (drag racing line lock)! They are made to hold pressure on the out side and when activated may still allow pressure to go in the "IN" side but not let pressure go back from the "OUT" side.

Generally speaking you have to go in the "OUT and out the "IN", this way the valve/seal works like it's supposed to, by not letting pressure go from "OUT" to "IN".

It's just the way the line inputs need to be configured not the wiring!

But I don't have a line lock, I have a Wilwood Line Shut-Off Valve with Pressure Relief. The directions say:

Mounting/Routing: Position the brake shutoff valve between the master cylinder and the caliper to be shut-off. Mount securely with the bleed screw in the up position utilizing the mounting slots in the bracket using two mounting screws. The in/out brake shutoff ports are 1/8-27 NPT threads. An adapter may be required from the port fitting of the unit (included) to the brake line tubing depending upon the application. Run a brake line from the master cylinder to the "IN" port of the brake shutoff. Run another line from the "OUT" port of the brake shutoff to the caliper you want to control. The brake shutoff may be bled through the top bleed screw if necessary. - I have done all this.

Wiring: The lead wires should be connected to a 12 volt, 5 amp fused power source through a toggle switch. Always be sure to switch off the power to the brake shutoff when unit is not needed.

I am going to go to another racers shop tomorrow night and look and see how he has his wired up.

This is wilwood part # 260-9921.

[Egoracing]

1st. Both leads won't be connected thru a switch unless you have a double pole switch. One lead should be grounded, read that again, "GROUNDED". I have seen WAY to many people that have electrical issues think that a screw/rivet thru the drivers box or a chassis tube is a ground, it is not a good one and will fail. Run a ground wire from your battery to the engine block, then a #10 ground from there to each head and one to the dist mount. Then put one #10 into a ground location or stud in the area where your electrical is in the car and put your NEG wires to it. Your car will be happier and run better for it. While you can scratch the paint on the chassis and put a meter to it and have 12 volts that means nothing to how well the electrical system will work. Steel is a VERY poor conductor of current and that is what you need to keep the car running and operating correctly.

[cjsracing]

1st. Both leads won't be connected thru a switch unless you have a double pole switch. One lead should be grounded, read that again, "GROUNDED". I have seen WAY to many people that have electrical issues think that a screw/rivet thru the drivers box or a chassis tube is a ground, it is not a good one and will fail. Run a ground wire from your battery to the engine block, then a #10 ground from there to each head and one to the dist mount. Then put one #10 into a ground location or stud in the area where your electrical is in the car and put your NEG wires to it. Your car will be happier and run better for it. While you can scratch the paint on the chassis and put a meter to it and have 12 volts that means nothing to how well the electrical system will work. Steel is a VERY poor conductor of current and that is what you need to keep the car running and operating correctly.

Thanks Ego, I will try grounding one of the leads.

What I posted in post #8 was the directions word for word from the package, it would be nice if they had said that one of the leads needs to be grounded.

My cars runs fine and is grounded good, so I will try grounding one of the shut off valve leads and see if it works then.

Once again thanks to all who posted and tried to help me with this, I am not an electrician and the thing I had working on most on my car is the electrical system.