dry slick

[75t]

just wondering what would be the best ajustments to get the power to the ground on a dry slick track should we put more tilt in it or keep ajusting the four link. last night we indexed the top and and lowered the bottom bar and still not enough grip any ideas. thanks

[restad4r]

You'll get more responses if you provide some more info like car make, year, bar angles, percentages, spring rates, track type, etc..... my 2 cents.


Ant

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

The biggest thing about a slick track is that your flaws in your setup will show up. An unbalanced car will kill one of the tires. A loose car will be looser. A tight car will shove the nose worse. There is no one magical adjustment to go fast on the slick. You need a balanced car and a smooth driver.

[joedoozer]

The biggest thing about a slick track is that your flaws in your setup will show up. An unbalanced car will kill one of the tires. A loose car will be looser. A tight car will shove the nose worse. There is no one magical adjustment to go fast on the slick. You need a balanced car and a smooth driver.

I am glad none of our tracks get that slick. I am neither balanced or smooth lol.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I am glad none of our tracks get that slick. I am neither balanced or smooth lol.

Go and give it a try at Needmore.

[gadirtracer]

Needmore is a good place to get rid of your car if you can't sell it! Wreck-fest, one lane, dust bowl, tire eating, rubbered up hole in the earth.!

[car23]

Bury right front if your track is smooth enough. We do it even if it isnt. Move j bar to below pinion. Or leave it up on frame and keep it level with pinion. Move rear end to the left 1/4 to 1/2 by adjusting j bar length. Keep your bars in the arangement where u c the most forward bite when it has a little moisture. If it feels good with a little moisture and its going dry slick for the main put one round in rf and 2 in lr. Adjust rf shock to tie it down less rebound. If u can drive it on 3 wheels u may be ok if all that is a little to radical. If u dont have a balanced set up start by working your rf and get your car loose enough where u can drive it with the front end then work to the the rear. Good base frame heights amost. Dont know about what type of motor or banking you are running and your driving syle. Our is a get to the corner and push it through the floor type. No smoothie here .the first to crack at the corner is go loose a spot

[car23]

also leave the house with 50 lbs of bite with the driver in the car. i would start with my rearend square in the car.

[N2Racin]

also leave the house with 50 lbs of bite with the driver in the car. i would start with my rearend square in the car.

So less bite is better for slick?

I have 2006 blue Rocket, 550LF 375Rf 200LR 250RR 130lbs bite

[car23]

not really it depends on how your car responds. learned alot from crate racing and being on the ragged edge of loose. it really helps when u go back to horse power. i would work to balance your car then start tweaking. what do u look like on scales with your driver in. how much does he weigh

[N2Racin]

not really it depends on how your car responds. learned alot from crate racing and being on the ragged edge of loose. it really helps when u go back to horse power. i would work to balance your car then start tweaking. what do u look like on scales with your driver in. how much does he weigh

250lb driver - 55% left 53% rear

[Egoracing]

250lb driver - 55% left 53% rear

From my experience a lot of left hurts on a slick track. We ran on a track that was about like a baseball diamond clay by the end of the night. We would loose about 1% left and raise that weight from low left to the top of the center bar on the car, we would then drop the LR bottom bar 1-2 holes on the chassis and run it. We were in the 52.5-53% left when the weight was moved. We used that to win on that track running a crate against limited and supers, It also worked at Volusia Speedway when it got slick and slowed down.

[N2Racin]

From my experience a lot of left hurts on a slick track. We ran on a track that was about like a baseball diamond clay by the end of the night. We would loose about 1% left and raise that weight from low left to the top of the center bar on the car, we would then drop the LR bottom bar 1-2 holes on the chassis and run it. We were in the 52.5-53% left when the weight was moved. We used that to win on that track running a crate against limited and supers, It also worked at Volusia Speedway when it got slick and slowed down.

I run in an all seel class and need to weigh 2400lbs. I have no lead on car and weigh 2405. I have moved the battery to the right and high where the oil tank goes on a super. I do that LR bottom bar deal every night. Up for hot lap and Heat, then lower it 2 holes for feature. My rocket has holes to move shock inward 2 inches on RR. I have been told to try that? Makes the car think it has less left? But stiffen spring?

[dualdj1]

My rocket has holes to move shock inward 2 inches on RR. I have been told to try that? Makes the car think it has less left? But stiffen spring?

that actually softens the RR spring, and lets the car roll over easier.

[N2Racin]

that actually softens the RR spring, and lets the car roll over easier.

I was wondering, If I move it in should I stiffen spring?