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I have a 95 Rayburn swing arm under slung car can't seem to get any forward drive. Scale numbers are 54.8 cross 54.8 left and 57.3 rear it has a 400 LR and 350 rr any one got any suggestions?
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Replaced pullbar spring lately?Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing -
No I haven't had it apart few weeks ago just looking at it didn't seem broke then but stiff as o board. I believe it probly came new on the car in 95 because when I called the other company's like winters for rear end parts and gave them the serial numbers they told me of was sold to CJ rayburn in 1995 and same with the rackComment
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Those things don't last very long.Modern Day Spec Wedge RacingComment
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you def need to change the spring, it actually needs to be changed every few races, i think we changed them every 6 races if we went any longer we could start to notice a difference in the car. someone can post a link to the best place to get them, its been a few yrs since we had a rayburn an cant remember where we got them.
thanks, 4bangerhotrodComment
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OK thanks its like 2 inch in diameter and 4 inch longComment
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mcmastercarr.com High-Performance Chrome-Silicon Steel Die SpringComment
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On my old Rayburn we ran 450 lf 525 rf 400 lr 375 rr as our best dry slick sprng set up. The rear bar adjustments were all the way down on the left and all the way up on the right. Your percentages look ok but we ran alot of bite, over 300lbs, which gave us a high cross weight and I found that how much the rr was moved back also influenced drive off, more was better, to a point. Like everything, others will disagree, like CJ, but that car was fast when set like that on the slick.Originally posted by 95rayburn View PostLast edited by hpmaster; 09-25-2012, 09:38 AM.Comment
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Need complete setup info. Also have you had the rails narrowed under the axel? 95 was a good year, but some mods are required to run the new setups.Originally posted by 95rayburn View Post"If racing were easy, everybody would do it."
#77 Leon "Slick" SellsComment
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new pull bar spring for sure. then if you still are lacking, move it towards drivers side (both pinion and frame).Comment
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no the rails are in the same spot on the lr i made that rail not so thick so the axle dosent hit it i was told to do that by billetbirdcage i believe and its a 1995 year lm chassis not a modified chassisComment
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I only work on DLM's, no mods in my area at all. What spring pkg are you running?Originally posted by 95rayburn View Post"If racing were easy, everybody would do it."
#77 Leon "Slick" SellsComment
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500 in the front i think never had them checked though and 350 in the rr and 400 in the lrComment
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dont you thing that might be something important to know what springs you have in the front end of the carComment
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Know thy chassis and Know thy self.
You really need to, "Know" what your springs are... I know your new, but this is very important. A common mistake newbies make(and some veterans) is trying to fix the turn exit first, when the handling problem started much earlier. For example if your car is tight on entry and your braking it loose, you'll never get it to hookup like you want on exit. Also if your throttle tight thru the center you could get what's called a, "Push/Loose" condition and spin the tires on exit. What happens is you throttle up, have too much traction and the nose pushes. Next you crank in more wheel to try and turn the car until the frontend finally grips, snapping the rear loose and spinning off the corner. None of these may be your problem, but since your new I thought I'd share some experience.Originally posted by 95rayburn View Post
The first rule of chassis tuning is, first fix entry, then fix the center and finally fix the exit."If racing were easy, everybody would do it."
#77 Leon "Slick" SellsComment
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