no forward drive

[95rayburn]

is there any way to tell what the spring rates are with out gettin them checked? because i have no spring rate tester

[Matt49]

is there any way to tell what the spring rates are with out gettin them checked? because i have no spring rate tester

Accurately? No

[hpmaster]

You can get close to what a spring is using the formula on dirt forum tool box, http://www.thedirtforum.com/toolbox.htm
but it is best to get them checked as switching spring rates is real big in making a car run well, in both turning and drive off. Always adjust entry first, if you can't get in a turn you can't get out well.
Also drive off is affected by frt springs more than you think. As weight rotates to the frt right on braking and turning the weight goes past the left frt spring, the heavier the left frt spring is the less weight that ever gets to right front. Then on acceleration the right frt spring pushes the frt end up again, sending the weight back to the rear right and then to the left rear. So if the right rear is too heavy it stops the weight on the right rear before it gets back to the left rear or if the right rear is too soft the weight goes past the right rear not getting the drive on that wheel it should have.
Remember the heavy spring gets the weight. This weight rotation, it's speed or timing and amount is affected directly by spring weight.
Having raced Rayburns and won with them adjust the car more by what the car is doing than the book settings or what your competitors are saying, CJ's tunning tips is all you need, just don't get all hung up on what is working versus what the book says for bite, springs and weight percentages. Then when the car is fast weigh and measure the car for your records.
Earlier in this thread I pretty much gave you a setup I won with for a Rayburn swing arm, you don't believe it or want to try it thats your choice. JMHO.

[swingarm4life]

We dont run Rayburns anymore, but we've won a ton of races running the same setup whether the track was heavy or slick. You can try this setup if you want, its been really successful for us in Georgia, Florida, and the Carolina's.
RF 500
LF 550
RR 300
LR 350
Purple Bar 5.5 on frame
Pullbar .5 left of center REPLACE SPRING
54.5 left
55.5 Rear
235 lbs bite (dont worry about cross)
Make sure you have a 1" and 2" wheel spacer, when track slicks off put 2" on LR and 1" on RF, put 4 rounds in left side and take 2 rounds out of right side. You shouldnt have to get too crazy with the bars, iv'e never been in the top or bottom hole on either side. If you have the old weld in bungs, make sure you put an extra bung between the "money hole" and the second hole on the LR. Thats way too large of a difference when adjusting.

[dualdj1]

54.5 left
55.5 Rear
235 lbs bite (dont worry about cross)
Make sure you have a 1" and 2" wheel spacer, when track slicks off put 2" on LR and 1" on RF, put 4 rounds in left side and take 2 rounds out of right side. You shouldnt have to get too crazy with the bars, iv'e never been in the top or bottom hole on either side. If you have the old weld in bungs, make sure you put an extra bung between the "money hole" and the second hole on the LR. Thats way too large of a difference when adjusting.

Thats about what we ran as well, though we weren't as drastic with the spacers (1" LR), and we probably should have had that much. The main difference is we ran short straight left side panhard, and Z RR. had swing a long time and Z was more smooth, worked well on paperclip track.

[swingarm4life]

We didnt always run both spacers, just when track was pretty slick. We also experimented with the standard j-bar and z link, just never could quite get a handle on it and always ended up going back to the old double swing arm with purple bar. We also played with the ladder bar stuff and then went back to the pullbar/braking bar deal. Its hard to beat that package when the track is wide open, but it takes a little playing with when the tracks blowing dust.

[95rayburn]

Thanks everyone for ur advice im going to try what u Guy's have told me to do my season dosent start untill April but ill keep everyone updated on what seem to work the best

[old17ford]

We didnt always run both spacers, just when track was pretty slick. We also experimented with the standard j-bar and z link, just never could quite get a handle on it and always ended up going back to the old double swing arm with purple bar. We also played with the ladder bar stuff and then went back to the pullbar/braking bar deal. Its hard to beat that package when the track is wide open, but it takes a little playing with when the tracks blowing dust.

Swingarm4life why did stop running RAYBURNS ?

[swingarm4life]

Just wanted something with more adjustability for a traveling car. If youre going to run the same track, Rayburns are as good as any car. But from traveling aspect, they were lacking that quick adjustabilty we were looking for.