j-bar -vs- straight bar ??????

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • twisterf5
    Senior Member
    • May 2012
    • 334

    #16
    Originally posted by racinjason29 View Post
    the car currently has a chain on the left rear to limit travel and the bar doesnt have alot of angle, if I switch to j-bar, should I remove the chain? Also I am on the new pull bar set up, my Rayburn has all the 2012 updates
    keep the chain keeps the car more consistent.
    how long is there new set up. pull bar end to end

    Comment

    • abe_05
      Member
      • Mar 2010
      • 63

      #17
      Keep the chain on, this will keep you pulling shock apart. If you have new pull bar setup, it will have slider bracket will a monoball inside mounted on frame with rod going down to pinion on rearend. This is what you need to be on.

      Comment

      • 95rayburn
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2012
        • 162

        #18
        Was wondering if anyone can show me a link or has a picture of rayburn new pull bar setup

        Comment

        • ALF401
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2007
          • 164

          #19
          Me Too

          I would like to see a picture or a link to see the new Rayburn pull bar set up.

          Comment

          • abe_05
            Member
            • Mar 2010
            • 63

            #20
            I don't know if CJ has made changes to pull bar mount in last 6 months but this is how it works: pull bar is mounted to rearend like before on top, the mount on frame is what is so different, it is a tube with a ball and the ball has a shaft that runs thru it, the tube is sloted on both sides so shaft is sticking out both side like a slug mount. One side the pull bar is mounted to and the other side has a rod that goes down and mounts to pinion plate. The idea is keep angle in pull bar. The ball mount just rolls down, it stays constant height over the rearend. I personally had run Rayburn for couple years and I was playing running rear trailing arms down low on both sides, this was picking rear of car up a lot give more rear steer, more bar angle was giving instant tracktion and it was correcting my problem with being so tight in corners, one problem with body coming up so high the pull bar is now strait, it had lost all angle and now forward bite is gone. This was working good for me on really hooked up tracks. Car was driving more like 4-bar car but with this new setup the pull bar stays constant a lot all times. Adjusting pinion angle will be easy, the only problem is last summer CJ working with couple drivers on fine tuning exactly were to mount it, how much angle on pull bar, if you keep a lot of angle in it the pull bar never stops picking up on car so trailing arms and swing arms have to fine tuned as well. I sold my car last year but very interested in how this car is going to work. I think this will be have to fine tuned some what but this is going to be good.

            Comment

            • dualdj1
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2009
              • 654

              #21
              Abe that sounds exactly like the issues we were having in the Rayburns when we left them. Had bars good, short straight bar and traction shock for great hike/transfer, but just couldn't get any foward bite. We actually ran 2 pull bars a couple times and it was better, but not enough. I'm very anxious to see how that works out.


              For shot straight bar, it's very usable, especially on rayburn if you want hike. It works great in the tacky, just keep the rake real low. 3-4". However, in the slick, I'd think you'd be better off with the purple bar, and not have it hike up so the pull bar works better.

              Comment

              Working...
              X