Rocket Blue violent bouncing back and forth

[PushinTheLimit]

The helms that mount it could be screwed to far out or magnets not level check your pinion angle too! Your lift bar should be 36-44 inches and your stabilizer from that lift bar to chassis is 14 1/4. And your chassis drop on a non under slung is 12 7/8 to 13 1/8 from top of axle tube to bottom of rail with car elevated on the blue fronts

For that 14 1/4", is that tip to tip, or is that center hole to center hole? If it's tip to tip, it's right on 14 1/4"... if it's center to center, it's 13 3/4". Also, my J-bar is sitting in the bottom hole on the right side of the rear end.

I didn't get to measure anything else last night as we were working on some starter issues. Thanks for all the help so far everyone... it's been very informative for me.

[7uptruckracer]

The stabilizer measurement is center to center any heim or tube measurements will be center to center so 14 1/4 could be your problem there if you lengthen it it will push it farther away . And by j bar measurement he means lateral location of the rear end which you measure from your upright 90/10 bracket to your RR inside frame rail your 90-10 bracket bolts to the top of your rear end it's the pair of somewhat triangular ears on the top measure from the outside of the right bracket to inside of RR frame rail but I suspect you might have found it with the stabilizer arm on the lift bar

[PushinTheLimit]

Thanks so much... then yeah, but lift bar is 1/2" to 3/4" too far to the right. I'll adjust it to 14 1/4" and that should adjust the rear end back to the right instead of so far left. I had a couple of guys comment on my last race that the rear was tucked in really far left in the car.

[Lizardracing]

It's a good idea to wrap the chain with tape to keep the links from getting tangle up. I like the chain used on swing sets that's has the plasitized rubber coating. It's cheap enough and easy to work on too because it doesn't leach glue that duct tape can after repeated heat cycles and car washes.

[7uptruckracer]

You tucking the LR is a product of your bar angles and with the fact you were on slick track shock settings you were probably hiking really far with no limiting chain. So don't worry about that get your Lateral Location Checked. Get your Lift Arm Stabilizer arm the right setting. Even back out your shock settings to suit your track conditions and set your chain and you should notice a big difference in drivability. Really Really make it a point to call Rocket tell them you'd like a Setup Book for your Chassis and they will mail it to you! We don't mind giving you this info but its all in there!

[PushinTheLimit]

Thanks Lizardracing, I've had a couple of guys mention that about the chain. I'll make sure and take care of that too.

[PushinTheLimit]

You tucking the LR is a product of your bar angles and with the fact you were on slick track shock settings you were probably hiking really far with no limiting chain. So don't worry about that get your Lateral Location Checked. Get your Lift Arm Stabilizer arm the right setting. Even back out your shock settings to suit your track conditions and set your chain and you should notice a big difference in drivability. Really Really make it a point to call Rocket tell them you'd like a Setup Book for your Chassis and they will mail it to you! We don't mind giving you this info but its all in there!

Yes, thank you for all your suggestions. I called Rocket a couple days ago and they are sending me a book, so it should arrive any day. Probably not in time for my race this weekend, but I got on off weekend after this one... so I should have some time to sit down and read through it and get familiar with the setup. The track I'm going to this weekend will be starting tacky, but slick off most likely by feature time and is much larger than I race on last weekend.

I'll update this thread on Sunday how the car performed and see how all the changes did for it. Thanks again everyone... you've been a huge help.

[big88fan]

I'd say to much j bar angle and/or right lower bar to low on the frame

[let-r-eat]

big88fan,He said the Jbar was in the bottom hole on the pinion. I'm certain depending on the bracket he's using that is gonna make things harsh.

[big88fan]

The bottom hole is ok if it's hard tires

[PushinTheLimit]

Quick update: We went to race at North Georgia Speedway last night. The track was a 1/3 mile very slick track. The car drove very smooth and didn't pogo at all. It was predictable and I was able to control it with the throttle off the corner. I had it too free in the heat race and went to the LCQ and finished 3-4 spots from making the feature. It was mostly due to my inexperience and not the car this time. But with some seat time in the car, I think we'll be in good shape next year.

The only trouble I had was with my transmission... had a terrible time trying to get it into low gear from neutral. But the shifting linkage has some swivel bolts in them and I think that was causing the problem. We're going to fix that and go run a practice day at Cleveland Speedway in 3 weeks.

[7uptruckracer]

Did you get your lift bar straight? Check your drop as it slick go to your max LR drop number. At full drop check your LRU bar angle and we index the LR upper bar down on the slot on the birdcage you also add some LRF shock compression if it gets slick the blue does have issues with what your describing though it's common to run 475 LF 325 RF 200s across rears and work with your bars shocks and 5th coil settings you want 4" of travel on your fifth coil or so sounds like it was better for ya!

[PushinTheLimit]

Yes, we lengthed the lift bar brace and looks like it didn't hit the lower chassis bar this time so that was an improvement. Where the J-bar mounts to the rear looked to have worked itself loose and was probably flopping up and down and could've caused alot of the erratic behavior. We tightened it up and moved it up 3 notches.

I adjusted my shocks to be inbetween a slick and tacky track setup, that seemed to work pretty good but I could've set them to a completely slick setup as the track was very slick all night even in hotlaps.

We are going to go back and run the first track again where I had all my problems and make a couple bar changes and shock changes and see how that goes for us. I expect the car to be much better this time around and much more driveable. Seat time and more seat time is what I need!