Brinn-Won't go into reverse with motor running

[JJ128]

My Brinn will not go into reverse with the motor running, it grinds really bad when you even start to pull it toward reverse. No problem going into reverse without car running, no problem going into low gear with car running. Just seeing if somebody knows for sure what causes this so that I can order parts or know what to look for before I tear it apart.

[AmickRacing]

I don't know much about Brinn's (or bert's really). Is it possible it's not completely out of 1st gear? Kinda sounds to me like it's trying to go into 2 gears at once... could be worn out detentes, or some slop in the shafts?

[TALON75]

Our do that too, mostly when they are cold, after a heat race or main they seem to work better. We just always put it in reverse before firing up. I think when the fluid is cold the clutches are a bit sticky which makes that shaft turn more than it should. I think if it were a detent problem you would have trouble shifting at all times.

[powerslide]

i agree w/ talon, mine has always been this way. Just put her in gear prior to start up.

[#25]

If the motor is running try putting it in low first then shift to reverse .

[JJ128]

I have been starting the car in reverse since it started doing this, it is just unhandy to shut it off and restart it if I want to back into my pit area or have to back up in the line up chute or whatever. I also feel like that if something is messed up it needs fixed, rather than just finding a way around it. I thought that maybe this was a common issue with an easy fix. Guess not. I will just call Brinn and post what they say. Thanks.

[MM90]

Brinn says in their FAQ not to shift into reverse when car is running because it is not syncronised. With that being said, my car would not go into reverse when it was cold. But after hot laps or heat race it would grind a little bit but would go into reverse without much effort with engine running.

[TALON75]

Sometimes it does help to shift into low then into reverse, it is supposed to help align the the shafts so it is easier to go into reverse . Also, I think this is a lot more common when using racing oil as fluid, I had a Brinn that was using atf and it seemed a bit smoother on the reverse shift, but I don't think the clutches lasted as long and switched it back to oil after a rebuild . If it is that big of a problem for you , you might want to try atf instead .

[lazermod3]

Sounds to me as if there is a design flaw,in the transmission.I know several people that have Falcon's,and or Bert's,operating without this issue.

[TALON75]

lol, we don't race in reverse!!!lol Brinn is still the best, most reliable transmission on the market too me !

[cedarcreek]

I agree with Talon,been running Brinns for years.Fixing to try a Racegator to see how it works.Heard pro's and cons about them,anyone here ever ran one.If you haven't do not respond please.

[TALON75]

A guy at our track did, two failures in about four races . I wouldn't chance it, find a good used Brinn .

[lazermod3]

lol, we don't race in reverse!!!lol Brinn is still the best, most reliable transmission on the market too me !

First let me say this about that!Yes,we don't race in reverse,but to go through the reverse issues,this should be uncalled for,so as I said in a earlier reply,the transmission must have a design flaw.

[Brinn Transmissions]

There is not a design flaw. Most of our transmissions out there will not do this. Here are a couple of possibilities: 1. A rebuild may have been done incorrectly and someone may not have used OE Brinn parts. 2. Master cylinder may not be releasing all the way. 3. Clutch linkage could be adjusted too tight. Adjust your clutch pedal so that it has some play at the top when fully retracted. 4. Do not use a quick disconnect anywhere on the clutch line. 5. Use the recommended oil (20/50 Valvoline non-synthetic or GM Dextron III transmission fluid) 6. A newly rebuilt clutch pack could possibly have tolerances tight enough to cause the oil to slightly drive the clutch pack when in neutral. Especially with a heavy oil type. When the oil heats up, the viscosity goes down and the clutch will act normal. In this case, try the GM Dextron III transmission fluid. In case number 6, while the engine is running, simply put the transmission in either 1st or reverse (whichever gear the transmission goes into easily) to bring the shafts up to engine speed, then pull the transmission into the gear you need. For instance, if you have trouble shifting into reverse, put the transmission in 1st, then pull it into reverse and you should be just fine. I've been to plenty of races and have not seen this issue with our 70001 transmission, but I understand it can exist.

[DRTRCR22]

Not just Brinn... I have the same problem with both of my Falcons, especially the first few races after a new clutch pack rebuild... and I run the recommended full synthetic Dexron AFT. I also found one time where I could not get it in gear at all... a set screw in the shift fork had vibrated loose and gave just enough play to bind up the meshing process. So make sure to lock-tite your set screws when you rebuild. I do not use a quick disconnect, I have play in my pedal, there is no linkage and MC is releasing properly, I only use OEM clutch packs and recommended fluid, and the 1st-reverse sync trick does not work for a Falcon... so, Brinn is not the only one, it is just the nature of the beast. Yes my Falcon works better when hot... but sometimes I just have to shut it down and put in gear then fire up again for reverse only... low is seldom a problem...