Calipers on the birdcage.

[JCSullivan00]

I posted this in the modified section, and didn't get any hits. I've seen many steel birdcages with caliper mounts on them.

We run a UMP type modified, and have always just ran solid caliper mounts.

What are the effects of having the caliper on the birdcage?

Do you do it on both sides or just one side?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I posted this in the modified section, and didn't get any hits. I've seen many steel birdcages with caliper mounts on them.

We run a UMP type modified, and have always just ran solid caliper mounts.

What are the effects of having the caliper on the birdcage?

Do you do it on both sides or just one side?

If you decide to go that route, just do the rr. It adds resistance to wheel travel when you apply the brakes. If you can be consistent on braking points on the track, that rr mounting will tighten your entry handling by effectively increasing the wheel rate while the brake pedal is pressed.

[Brian Gray]

just imagine what happens when you try to rotate the birdcage. on the right rear with the the spring in front as the car rolls and suspension compresses the birdcage in most cases rotates counterclockwise thus loading the spring more as it indexes. if you add a brake to that corner it will try to turn it clockwise hence slowing the rotation and trying to hold the car up. its like adding spring rate just for a moment.

the real challenge is when you release the brake , the car will act upon its new wheel rate and change rapidly, typically this setup can be very unpredictable as well as unstable.

i agree with the above i would only try it on the right. it was used alot a number of years ago but you dont see that very often anymore.

on the left rear you get the same. braking will try to hold the car up on the bars . depending on your entry you get some varying effects . ultimately you are influencing birdcage rotation with your braking and in my opinion can lead to instability .

that doesnt mean that you should never use this as an option.

the 4-link system on dirt cars is very complex and there is much more to the story than stated but i hope that helps some.

[hucktyson]

Stock Car Racer ... Tying it is a wise idea instead of listening to something a pole smoker like Brian Gray has to say on a subject

[JustAddDirt]

on the contrary hucktyson, Bryan has made several good points on his post.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Never seen it done like these guys are saying.

Ive ran my IMCA mod with lr on the cage and seen a few others doing the same thing.

I personally think I like a standard floater on the lr as I can raise or lower the rod and keep the rf frame off the ground on heavy tracks that way.

I may put the cage with brake on it back on to try it again now that I have more nights under my belt. Im one that likes to try things vs just figure they are the best because someone says so.

A large percentage of late model 4 link cars were set up that way in the early 2000s. A good driver can make hay with it. A rookie should avoid it.

You would be way better served with a dedicated floater on the lr.

[hucktyson]

I'm not saying " gay grays" talking points are not correct , I'm saying asking him about racing is like asking the rapper easy e about how to avoid getting aids .....

[hpmaster]

The idea was used on the left rear in the past trying to use brake force to help get and keep cars up on the bars before people fully understood the entire concept of putting a car on the bars, don't see guys doing it any more. JMHO

[JCSullivan00]

Thanks for lesson guys. I appreciate it!

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Are or were late models free on entry? It sounds like having it on the rr would be good on dry dusty tracks, but a real hindrance on tacky tracks where you try and use the brakes to turn?

They were certainly looser back then on average.