Originally posted by fastford
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Are you NUT'S or just stupid?!
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I'm not sure what you are saying is more maintence on them. We used them with an Alum shaft back in 03 and just cleaned greased them after 10-15 races. Not anymore work than a regular trans. But i agree i would never personally own one, looking back i'm suprised he did and it may of been because of a sponsorship deal not totally sure.
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I have never ran one powerslide, but was told they really needed cleaning and checking more like every 2 to 3 races , which consisted of pulling shaft and taking the slip yoke apart, don't know for sure, just what Ive been told by several people.
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Just got a pic sent to me of that broken ballspline. This is the second failure in less than a month, the first was a broken driveshaft yoke I am told. After looking at the picture I can't see how a steel driveshaft is going to solve anything? If you do not fix what is breaking the driveline all a steel shaft would do is have a bigger bat swinging around when it breaks again!Attached FilesLast edited by hpmaster; 07-24-2014, 09:29 AM.
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Just had a PIC of the first driveshaft that was broken sent to me. Seems the guy posted them on a FB page I am told.Attached Files
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Probably broke the yoke because of the first failure. Didnt check it out just put a new shaft in
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I made that mistake, broke a torque arm, broke the driveshaft, replaced it and promptly broke another, rear yoke had cracked and was destroying U-Joints. I finally learned my lesson...
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On July 24, 2004, Jeremy suffered an injury that threatened his racing career while running his No. 51 Late Model at 311 Speedway in Madison, NC. The torque arm broke under his car and sent a steel driveshaft piercing through his (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit, almost removing his right hand. Initially doctors predicted that he would be lucky to have any movement at all in the hand. Jeremy underwent 8 surgeries and months of physical therapy to regain use of his right hand.Originally posted by davis2902 View PostAsk Jeremy Clements about running a steel drive shaft!
Just if you think it NEVER happens or only rare read on
(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) Barton moved his foot. He felt no pain.
Then he touched his hip. He found no blood.
Except for a bruised hip, Barton survived the first broken driveshaft of his 36-year dirt racing career.
After breaking away from his Super Late Model, the steel driveshaft -- a mechanical device shaped like a long, thin tube that transfers engine power to the rear of the car -- broke through a protective aluminum plate and crashed into Barton's seat.
"All I felt was that thud," said Barton, of Ashville, N.Y.
But his injuries in that 2008 race at Stateline Speedway could have been much worse.
"The deadliest thing on the car is the driveshaft," said Late Model racer Scott Johnson, a Wattsburg native. "(The) most bodily injury that you're ever going to get is from the driveshaft unless it's a total disaster rollover. The only thing between you and that driveshaft is one (safety) hoop and that little bit of aluminum (and) steel that's supposed to stop it."
Racers consider that thought when they decide between steel, aluminum and carbon fiber driveshafts.
Then they answer one question. What's more important -- cost or safety?
Steel and aluminum driveshafts are cheaper -- $100-$275 compared to $650-$750 for carbon fiber.
Steel and aluminum driveshafts are more dangerous. A steel driveshaft broke Late Model veteran John Lobb's elbow and severed an artery in his arm during a 2004 race at Eriez Speedway.
He missed two months of the season while recovering from those injuries. Worse, he lost time and money at work.
Last season, he broke two carbon fiber driveshafts in consecutive races. They disintegrated instead of crashing into the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit. He wasn't hurt either time.
"It's a pretty good insurance policy," said Lobb, of Frewsburg, N.Y. "Yes, it's $500 more. But can you afford to be off from work for several weeks?"
North East native Terry Akerly, a Lake Erie Speedway veteran, has a heavy duty driveshaft -- similar to what are found in trucks -- in his SportMod.
No more regular steel for him, not after barely escaping injury in a 2007 Street Stock race.
The driveshaft twisted and broke before ripping a big hole in the floor.
"That one (isn't) breaking," he said of the heavy duty driveshaft.
Barton still uses a regular steel driveshaft.
"It's probably foolish," Barton said, since he isn't certain why his team hasn't changed to carbon fiber.
Perhaps it's a cost issue. Perhaps his team still believes driveshafts don't break because other faulty parts cause them to break. Another broken part caused his driveshaft-related mishap last season, he said.
Other drivers point to wear and tear as the cause.
Akerly's broken driveshaft was the original on his 1977 Street Stock.
"They can only take so much for so long," he said.
Driveshafts face a tremendous amount of horsepower and torque as they spin. Johnson's motor turns at 9,000 rpm in a race. Barton's motor surged from 8,500 rpm to 10,000 rpm once the driveshaft broke.
"I know it's wheeling," Johnson said.
Some drivers never discover the cause. But they all know "they're very dangerous," Barton said.
A week after Barton's incident, Johnson's team purchased a carbon fiber driveshaft. Two weeks ago at Eriez, Johnson remembered why he has one.
He watched Late Model racer Ron Bem, of Union City, suffer multiple leg bruises from a broken driveshaft. Afterwards, Johnson's team found it bent into a U-shape and snapped the safety hoop.
Driveshafts are a part of teams' weekly inspections. LES officials require thorough inspections, including driveshafts, before allowing cars on the track. But finding potential problems is challenging. Even with visual inspections, the smallest fractures that lead to breaks are difficult to detect.
So every weekend on the track, "There's always that thought in the back of your mind," Lobb said. "Nobody wants to get hurt."Last edited by hpmaster; 08-05-2014, 08:40 PM.
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i always ran a driveshaft loop that is round, not square half a.. ones that come in the car. i took a weight clamp and a 2 inch by 1/4 aluminum strap drilled a hole in one end of the strap bent it over a 5 gallon bucket and did some hand-vise massaging then when u got a nice circle put a 1/2 bolt thru both holes and mount it on the x member near the front of the driveshaft so if it does come apart it dropd in the circle and just sits there and spins. no more tor up x members no more tore up drivers and it maybe weighed 3 lbs and cost 25 bucks a 1hr of time. i never had a d/s fail but i always ran that. dont know if it woulda held up or not but i felt better anyway
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One thing that Andy hit on is an absolute. No one seems to like to talk about the stupid cheesy worthless loops put into cars these days. With two loops or better yet a tunnel including and not limited too, extra support on the drivers tub near the DS like 1/8 aluminum for example, DS injuries could be dramatically reduced to almost never instead of common.
I don't want to hear anything about the weight penalty either. It's centrally located and has the least effect on handling.
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you sir are a very lucky man playing with your life,and please don't take this wrong,I'm not dogging you in any way,Originally posted by lovinlatemodels View PostI have always run a steel drive shaft with a ball spline made from Wiles and never had any problems did this for 13 years of racing maybe it is wrong set up and in proper maintenance that's is causing the problems I know some people like to stretch there equipment longevity way to long.
guys heres the facts as i know them,we run carbon fiber drive shafts in all of our late models,crates and supers,we haven't had any and i mean zero failures with all having ballspline trans,now as far as any ballsplines failing,everyone that I've seen fail has been from lack of maintenance PERIOD,
TOO EVERYONE OUT THERE PLEASE AS A RACER, OWNER, AND DRIVER,PLEASE AS YOUR FRIEND FROM EXPERIENCE USE A CABON FIBER DRIVE SHAFT FOR ANY AND ALL BALLSPLINE TYPE TRANS,YOUR LIFE IS WORTH 600-800 TO YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS,i have had a very good friend of mine that the drive shaft came in the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit,he was VERY lucky,it broke his pelvis,almost broke his leg,and took some time to get over,not to mention beat the hell out of the seat and how it didn't get his arm i don't know,GUYS THIS IS A HUGE SAFTEY FACTOR,too all good luck and PLEASE use common sense and be safe out there,all of the testing on the driveshaft(the oldest one)its been through 3 cars,a 430,a 415,and a 450,with plenty of power,all i can speak of is from my experience and there it is,ALL FACT,i forgot to mention,it was a standard trans but the tailshaft housing broke(rubbins racing)yoke fell out and the rear end was still hooked up and rotating,like i said HUGE SAFTEY FACTOR and should be mandatory for all ballspline type transLast edited by grt74; 12-11-2014, 11:21 PM.
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We had a chain of events destroy the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit of a car and nearly destroyed me. We were experimenting with a pull bar, and found out that we didn't have near enough braces to hold the mounts in. It pulled the cross tube that the mounts were attached to (factory installed tube) clean out of the car. In doing so, it pushed the driveshaft into the transmission and broke the bellhousing in half. The transmission came out and the driveshaft went to work on me and the car. Not 100% on what all hit me, but I got it in the shoulder, elbow, and even had a huge bruise on the back of my leg from the floorboard being pushed up into me. I wasn't hurt other than some scrapes and bruises, and probably got hit 10-15 times in a matter of seconds before the driveshaft caught the track and ripped itself out of the car. It completely destroyed the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit and floor board, ripped the hoop out, tore up the x bracing pretty good, broke the LR bell on the rearend, and knocked the rearend fill can off of the deck. I was lucky that this was a lightweight shaft and came apart quickly, but the cost of a Carbon Fiber shaft would have been much cheaper than everything else that had to be fixed.
2 Morals:
They don't run pullbars in 4-bar late models anymore for a reason.
And make sure your loop is in the right place. Take into consideration any movement due to something breaking and pulling back on the driveshaft.
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